Kausar Iqbal love to share our rich eastern culture and traditions. Here we will share our artisans story & crafts techniques
Friday, January 14, 2011
Glass Bangles
Glass Bangles (or as called Churiya in Urdu) or jewels on the wrist
Oh! What a beautiful adornment!
Bangles are a part of Pakistani women lives because they allow people to express their personality, individuality, and creativity. For centuries, women throughout Pakistan have been wearing bangles as decorative ornaments. Consequently, bangles have come to hold great cultural and historical significance. In Pakistan, many traditional ceremonies connect with bangles like woman wear symbolize their happy marriage and are called suhagan then there are bangles for brides which are presented by bride groom side and they are beautifully crafted in red color with golden pattern. Red bangles wear by the bride at the time of the wedding is considered auspicious also on the wedding of a girl her sisters distribute set of green or yellow bangles to all the ladies guest on her Mehndi, her last day at parents house where many guest were invited for dinner and then they put henna on her hand and offer her sweet candies .a lot of fun and singing and dancing take place.
Glass bangles make a sound like chuunn with each movement of the wearer wrist. Glass bangles have bewildered women from ages with their shimmering sparkles, tinkling sound, innovative patterns and magnificent colors. In olden days they were part of nobility but now these ornaments have become very popular with women of all ages. The romance connected with chooree kee chankaar (sound of the bangle) has not only been an integral part of eastern heritage but is now a part of all festive occasions in eastern culture. Evidence of Indus Civilization portrays bangles adoring the wrists of prehistoric women. Bangles have been found in many archaeological sites in Pakistan, with the oldest examples dating back to 2,000 B.C. or earlier. Those early bangles were usually made from copper, bronze, agate, or shell.
Now let me take you to our artisans’ world and see how these bangles are made although these days a variety of materials are used, in different designs, shape and color. They can be plastic, glass, silver with stones and wooden bangles. In semi-precious or precious metal form, bangles are often metal, silver and even gold. The most durable of bangles are gold. Glass bangles are the least durable, and may break with careless handing. Because of this, many women prefer gold bangles for everyday wear, and reserve glass bangles for special occasions.
As bangles are very fascinating with the intricate and colorful design, but do you know how these bangles are made?? Here we shall discuss the interesting yet complex process of making glass bangles with Salima (artisan). As she mentions that the process of Making Glass Bangles is a very tremendous work as raw glass for bangles is of the same material as prepared for other glassware, which is taken out of the furnace through the pipes. Without removing the pipes, the molten glass is beaten to make its dimensions equal. After this, the glass with the pipe is placed in another furnace which has an automated roller. When this molten glass comes in contact with the roller, it starts stretching like a thread and rolls around it. In this process a spring of glass is formed. To make separate bangles, this spring is then cut with the help of a cutter of diamond. But, at this stage, these bangles have two ends, which need to be joined. Usually, this job is taken up by separate units. The open ended bangles are given to the team of workers for the joining process. Traditionally, this process of joining of bangles is termed as 'Judai'. Workers doing joining or Judai use simple chimney of kerosene connected with the air input, generated by simple air compressor, locally known as 'Pankha'. In one unit, as many as 15 to 20 chimneys are connected with one air compressor. The joined bangles pass through another process popularly known as 'Sadhai'. In this process, joints of bangles are made to look neat and straight. Here, the glass is made to melt. The application of little pressure joins both the ends. The job of sadhai is usually accomplished by women workers. It may be noted that a large number of people are engaged with the work of Judai and Sadhai of bangles to earn their livelihood. This elegant beauty in a range of colors, styles come with different decorations. Then each bangle is hand decorated with different pattern and special glitter and paints are used. So in short once the bangles, in various shapes and sizes, have been crafted by the men, they are embellished with shiny artificial stones, beads, and glass fragments in colorful patterns by the women.
Glass bangles are unique & beautiful also they are easy in maintenance, and every woman can afford them and can create personal style statement. In Pakistan the city of Hyderabad is very famous for bangle making a whole industry flourishes there and provide living hood to many artisans.
Oh! What a beautiful adornment!
Bangles are a part of Pakistani women lives because they allow people to express their personality, individuality, and creativity. For centuries, women throughout Pakistan have been wearing bangles as decorative ornaments. Consequently, bangles have come to hold great cultural and historical significance. In Pakistan, many traditional ceremonies connect with bangles like woman wear symbolize their happy marriage and are called suhagan then there are bangles for brides which are presented by bride groom side and they are beautifully crafted in red color with golden pattern. Red bangles wear by the bride at the time of the wedding is considered auspicious also on the wedding of a girl her sisters distribute set of green or yellow bangles to all the ladies guest on her Mehndi, her last day at parents house where many guest were invited for dinner and then they put henna on her hand and offer her sweet candies .a lot of fun and singing and dancing take place.
Glass bangles make a sound like chuunn with each movement of the wearer wrist. Glass bangles have bewildered women from ages with their shimmering sparkles, tinkling sound, innovative patterns and magnificent colors. In olden days they were part of nobility but now these ornaments have become very popular with women of all ages. The romance connected with chooree kee chankaar (sound of the bangle) has not only been an integral part of eastern heritage but is now a part of all festive occasions in eastern culture. Evidence of Indus Civilization portrays bangles adoring the wrists of prehistoric women. Bangles have been found in many archaeological sites in Pakistan, with the oldest examples dating back to 2,000 B.C. or earlier. Those early bangles were usually made from copper, bronze, agate, or shell.
Now let me take you to our artisans’ world and see how these bangles are made although these days a variety of materials are used, in different designs, shape and color. They can be plastic, glass, silver with stones and wooden bangles. In semi-precious or precious metal form, bangles are often metal, silver and even gold. The most durable of bangles are gold. Glass bangles are the least durable, and may break with careless handing. Because of this, many women prefer gold bangles for everyday wear, and reserve glass bangles for special occasions.
As bangles are very fascinating with the intricate and colorful design, but do you know how these bangles are made?? Here we shall discuss the interesting yet complex process of making glass bangles with Salima (artisan). As she mentions that the process of Making Glass Bangles is a very tremendous work as raw glass for bangles is of the same material as prepared for other glassware, which is taken out of the furnace through the pipes. Without removing the pipes, the molten glass is beaten to make its dimensions equal. After this, the glass with the pipe is placed in another furnace which has an automated roller. When this molten glass comes in contact with the roller, it starts stretching like a thread and rolls around it. In this process a spring of glass is formed. To make separate bangles, this spring is then cut with the help of a cutter of diamond. But, at this stage, these bangles have two ends, which need to be joined. Usually, this job is taken up by separate units. The open ended bangles are given to the team of workers for the joining process. Traditionally, this process of joining of bangles is termed as 'Judai'. Workers doing joining or Judai use simple chimney of kerosene connected with the air input, generated by simple air compressor, locally known as 'Pankha'. In one unit, as many as 15 to 20 chimneys are connected with one air compressor. The joined bangles pass through another process popularly known as 'Sadhai'. In this process, joints of bangles are made to look neat and straight. Here, the glass is made to melt. The application of little pressure joins both the ends. The job of sadhai is usually accomplished by women workers. It may be noted that a large number of people are engaged with the work of Judai and Sadhai of bangles to earn their livelihood. This elegant beauty in a range of colors, styles come with different decorations. Then each bangle is hand decorated with different pattern and special glitter and paints are used. So in short once the bangles, in various shapes and sizes, have been crafted by the men, they are embellished with shiny artificial stones, beads, and glass fragments in colorful patterns by the women.
Glass bangles are unique & beautiful also they are easy in maintenance, and every woman can afford them and can create personal style statement. In Pakistan the city of Hyderabad is very famous for bangle making a whole industry flourishes there and provide living hood to many artisans.
Friday, December 10, 2010
The tale of Textile from Indus Civilization
The tale of Textile from Indus Civilization
Pakistan textile enjoys a rich heritage and the origin of textiles has traces back to the Indus valley Civilization. The handloom weavers of Pakistan have been spinning their magic for thousands of years. Cotton and silk fabrics produced today carry on century’s old tradition in design and craftsmanship incorporating modern quality and design techniques. Pakistan is famous for cotton crops and export cotton to other countries also.
Traditionally fiber is taken from plants or animals, for example cotton from cotton seed pods, linen from flax stems, wool from sheep hair, or silk from the spun cocoons of silkworms. In addition to these traditional materials, synthetic materials such as plastic acrylic are now used In order for the fiber to be made into cloth or clothing, it must be spun (or twisted) into a strand known as yarn. When the yarn is ready and dyed for use it can be made into cloth in a number of ways. Knitting and crochet are common methods of twisting and shaping the yarn into garments or fabric. The most common use of yarn to make cloth is weaved fabric called as Khadi or Khaddar, this type of fabric is coarse and bit loosely woven. Just for my reader information that in weaving, the yarn is wrapped on a frame called a loom and pulled taut vertically. This is known as the warp. Then another strand of yarn is worked back and forth wrapping over and under the warp. This wrapped yarn is called the weft. Most art and commercial textiles are made by this process but power loom are used to produce all type of fabric.
Let me describe the different type of weaving done in Pakistan as this information is given by Artisans (Muna Shamsuddin and family) of East World Market ,who are manufacturer of handloom material in Orangi Town.
Jamawar
“Jama” means robe and “war” is yard. The base of the jamawar is mostly silk thread called resham, with a little addition of polyester. The brocaded parts are woven in similar threads of silk and polyester. Most of the designs seen today are floral or with a traditional pattern called the kairy (the paisley) .Pakistan has the best woven material in Jamawar and this is mostly used for bridal dresses. Since this is a delicate fabric because of its texture and pattern. It get entangle easily with metallic embroidery and jewelry so care should be taken while wearing it. Now days the weaving of Jamawar in Pakistan is done on the jacquard loom. The pattas, which are the punched cards, controlled the actions of the loom, allowing automatic production of intricate woven patterns. The bigger the motif, the greater the number of cards required to make them. Another big change were brought about in 1985 in weaving where the source of inspiration was the Chinese Shanghai cloth. The patterns of the Chinese Shanghai were amended in accordance to the weave construction of the jamawar cloth.
Jamdani' - the great characteristic of fine art in hand weaving derived from a "PERSION" word 'JAM' meaning a 'cup' and 'DANI' denotes the 'container' . Jamdani weaving style flourished under rich and enlightened patronage of Mughal emperors. Excellence in weaving techniques the figured muslin with delicate motifs worked on by deft fingers, needed besides skill, unlimited patience, and one yard of cloth sometimes taking months to weave. The "Mughals" recognized this excellence art but kept the product rare to common people .this type of weaving also common in India & Bangladesh. The handloom weaves of Pakistan have been spinning their magic for generations. Cotton and silk fabrics produced today carry on century’s old tradition in design and craftsmanship incorporating modern quality and design techniques. The weavers are not only expert craftsmen, but artists who capture the spirit of the past in the unique traditional designs through bold use of colors and textures. There is also an enthusiasm for experimentation with new ideas and styles which is evident in the variety of designs and fabrics produced by the handloom industry.
Sussi
The wonders of handloom include: sussi, striped and checked material in cotton. The cloth is distinguished by its intricate stripes, char-khana (four squares) or jal of botis (flowers) all a piece of art in textile handloom .Mostly this type of fabrics are used to make bed spread or Jacket ,vest and pajamas called Shalwar .This is a traditional rural crafts of Sindh.. The pattern was evolved centuries ago. Presently Gumbat and Tando Mohammad Khan in Sindh are the leading production centers . A large number of colors and patterns are used in weaving Sussi cloth. In recent times there has been a trend away from pure cotton Sussi to silk and synthetic blends as well and this make the cloth more popular because now it shrink less.
Brocade
This is another beautiful fine handspun creation of silk interwoven with gold or silver threads in a rainbow of colors and thread.
Silk brocades, texturally, are divided mainly into two groups:
Kamkhwab
Kam means little or scarcely. Khwab means a dream and it’s said that even with such a name ‘Its beauty, splendor and elegance can be hardly dreamt of’. Kamkhwab are heavy fabrics or several layers of warp threads with an elaborate all-over pattern of extra weft, which may be of silk, gold and / or silver threads or combinations. There may be three to seven layers of warp threads. (Tipara means three layers and Chaupara means four layers to Satpara meaning seven layers). Kin means golden in Chinese. Its specialty is in profusely using the gold and silver thread in a manner that sometimes leaves the silk background hardly visible.
Katan
These are called Katan (a thread prepared by twisting a different number of silk filaments) brocades; they are lighter in textures (lower thread count) than Kamkhwab but loosely woven in silk and has certain portions of zari (metallic thread) work as a pattern. These fabrics are mostly used for making garments and now days also used in home furnishing.
Zari wala silk or Zari wala georgette
Zari is generally of two types Badla and Kala batto. Badla Zari was made of flattened gold or silver wire with the ancient method of making zari from pure metal without any core thread. This accounted for its peculiar stiffness. Sometimes cracks would develop in the metal during the process of weaving which resulted in the loss of its natural luster and smoothness. Therefore weaving with Badla Zari was difficult and required great skill. Often a touch of Badla was given to floral motives to enhance the beauty. This type of zari has mostly gone out of favor amongst the contemporary weavers and they mostly depend on polyester or pure silk as a substitute. This thread can also be twisted with gold threads in order to make zari. The zari fiber is doubled with the yarn to prepare it for the process of weaving. Another reason for twisting the zari fiber is to reduce its excessive shine. The zari fiber is wrapped on reels and is doubled with the yarn with the help of a machine, on cones. These fibers are then wrapped on reels with the help of a doubling machine. The threads are then steamed and wrapped on the final spools. The required threads (silk, zari, etc) are then taken to the charkha, which is a machine used to make the warp for the weaving process. This type fabric is used to make headscarf ( dupattas)or dresses for ladies.
Khes Weaving
Khes is a weaved fabric .different pattern and color s of threads are used there a bit thick in texture as its used as blanket in summer or chilly winter night. its soft and can be used from both side .the beauty of this type of weaving that all done on small handloom mostly done by women in the privacy of their home. Khes is a traditional craft of Khairpur. Centuries ago to meet the need for a cotton blanket, it was an important item of export during the Mughal period. Presently Khes are used throughout Pakistan as bed covers, curtains, table cloths, floor coverings and sheets. Best know Khes come from Gumbat, nasarpur and Sukkur. Now a day the weaver started weaving shawl as there are in great demand.
KHADDAR:
Khaddar or Khadi is the simplest cotton wear and is described generally as coarse cloth. Until recently Khaddar was among the region’s major exports to Central Asia. Khaddar comes in a wide range of thickness, texture and design and is marketed in yardage for upholstery drapery, bed covers, quilts and garments. This cloth is easy to wear in summer and keep the body cool during humid and hot weather/
Pakistan textile enjoys a rich heritage and the origin of textiles has traces back to the Indus valley Civilization. The handloom weavers of Pakistan have been spinning their magic for thousands of years. Cotton and silk fabrics produced today carry on century’s old tradition in design and craftsmanship incorporating modern quality and design techniques. Pakistan is famous for cotton crops and export cotton to other countries also.
Traditionally fiber is taken from plants or animals, for example cotton from cotton seed pods, linen from flax stems, wool from sheep hair, or silk from the spun cocoons of silkworms. In addition to these traditional materials, synthetic materials such as plastic acrylic are now used In order for the fiber to be made into cloth or clothing, it must be spun (or twisted) into a strand known as yarn. When the yarn is ready and dyed for use it can be made into cloth in a number of ways. Knitting and crochet are common methods of twisting and shaping the yarn into garments or fabric. The most common use of yarn to make cloth is weaved fabric called as Khadi or Khaddar, this type of fabric is coarse and bit loosely woven. Just for my reader information that in weaving, the yarn is wrapped on a frame called a loom and pulled taut vertically. This is known as the warp. Then another strand of yarn is worked back and forth wrapping over and under the warp. This wrapped yarn is called the weft. Most art and commercial textiles are made by this process but power loom are used to produce all type of fabric.
Let me describe the different type of weaving done in Pakistan as this information is given by Artisans (Muna Shamsuddin and family) of East World Market ,who are manufacturer of handloom material in Orangi Town.
Jamawar
“Jama” means robe and “war” is yard. The base of the jamawar is mostly silk thread called resham, with a little addition of polyester. The brocaded parts are woven in similar threads of silk and polyester. Most of the designs seen today are floral or with a traditional pattern called the kairy (the paisley) .Pakistan has the best woven material in Jamawar and this is mostly used for bridal dresses. Since this is a delicate fabric because of its texture and pattern. It get entangle easily with metallic embroidery and jewelry so care should be taken while wearing it. Now days the weaving of Jamawar in Pakistan is done on the jacquard loom. The pattas, which are the punched cards, controlled the actions of the loom, allowing automatic production of intricate woven patterns. The bigger the motif, the greater the number of cards required to make them. Another big change were brought about in 1985 in weaving where the source of inspiration was the Chinese Shanghai cloth. The patterns of the Chinese Shanghai were amended in accordance to the weave construction of the jamawar cloth.
Jamdani' - the great characteristic of fine art in hand weaving derived from a "PERSION" word 'JAM' meaning a 'cup' and 'DANI' denotes the 'container' . Jamdani weaving style flourished under rich and enlightened patronage of Mughal emperors. Excellence in weaving techniques the figured muslin with delicate motifs worked on by deft fingers, needed besides skill, unlimited patience, and one yard of cloth sometimes taking months to weave. The "Mughals" recognized this excellence art but kept the product rare to common people .this type of weaving also common in India & Bangladesh. The handloom weaves of Pakistan have been spinning their magic for generations. Cotton and silk fabrics produced today carry on century’s old tradition in design and craftsmanship incorporating modern quality and design techniques. The weavers are not only expert craftsmen, but artists who capture the spirit of the past in the unique traditional designs through bold use of colors and textures. There is also an enthusiasm for experimentation with new ideas and styles which is evident in the variety of designs and fabrics produced by the handloom industry.
Sussi
The wonders of handloom include: sussi, striped and checked material in cotton. The cloth is distinguished by its intricate stripes, char-khana (four squares) or jal of botis (flowers) all a piece of art in textile handloom .Mostly this type of fabrics are used to make bed spread or Jacket ,vest and pajamas called Shalwar .This is a traditional rural crafts of Sindh.. The pattern was evolved centuries ago. Presently Gumbat and Tando Mohammad Khan in Sindh are the leading production centers . A large number of colors and patterns are used in weaving Sussi cloth. In recent times there has been a trend away from pure cotton Sussi to silk and synthetic blends as well and this make the cloth more popular because now it shrink less.
Brocade
This is another beautiful fine handspun creation of silk interwoven with gold or silver threads in a rainbow of colors and thread.
Silk brocades, texturally, are divided mainly into two groups:
Kamkhwab
Kam means little or scarcely. Khwab means a dream and it’s said that even with such a name ‘Its beauty, splendor and elegance can be hardly dreamt of’. Kamkhwab are heavy fabrics or several layers of warp threads with an elaborate all-over pattern of extra weft, which may be of silk, gold and / or silver threads or combinations. There may be three to seven layers of warp threads. (Tipara means three layers and Chaupara means four layers to Satpara meaning seven layers). Kin means golden in Chinese. Its specialty is in profusely using the gold and silver thread in a manner that sometimes leaves the silk background hardly visible.
Katan
These are called Katan (a thread prepared by twisting a different number of silk filaments) brocades; they are lighter in textures (lower thread count) than Kamkhwab but loosely woven in silk and has certain portions of zari (metallic thread) work as a pattern. These fabrics are mostly used for making garments and now days also used in home furnishing.
Zari wala silk or Zari wala georgette
Zari is generally of two types Badla and Kala batto. Badla Zari was made of flattened gold or silver wire with the ancient method of making zari from pure metal without any core thread. This accounted for its peculiar stiffness. Sometimes cracks would develop in the metal during the process of weaving which resulted in the loss of its natural luster and smoothness. Therefore weaving with Badla Zari was difficult and required great skill. Often a touch of Badla was given to floral motives to enhance the beauty. This type of zari has mostly gone out of favor amongst the contemporary weavers and they mostly depend on polyester or pure silk as a substitute. This thread can also be twisted with gold threads in order to make zari. The zari fiber is doubled with the yarn to prepare it for the process of weaving. Another reason for twisting the zari fiber is to reduce its excessive shine. The zari fiber is wrapped on reels and is doubled with the yarn with the help of a machine, on cones. These fibers are then wrapped on reels with the help of a doubling machine. The threads are then steamed and wrapped on the final spools. The required threads (silk, zari, etc) are then taken to the charkha, which is a machine used to make the warp for the weaving process. This type fabric is used to make headscarf ( dupattas)or dresses for ladies.
Khes Weaving
Khes is a weaved fabric .different pattern and color s of threads are used there a bit thick in texture as its used as blanket in summer or chilly winter night. its soft and can be used from both side .the beauty of this type of weaving that all done on small handloom mostly done by women in the privacy of their home. Khes is a traditional craft of Khairpur. Centuries ago to meet the need for a cotton blanket, it was an important item of export during the Mughal period. Presently Khes are used throughout Pakistan as bed covers, curtains, table cloths, floor coverings and sheets. Best know Khes come from Gumbat, nasarpur and Sukkur. Now a day the weaver started weaving shawl as there are in great demand.
KHADDAR:
Khaddar or Khadi is the simplest cotton wear and is described generally as coarse cloth. Until recently Khaddar was among the region’s major exports to Central Asia. Khaddar comes in a wide range of thickness, texture and design and is marketed in yardage for upholstery drapery, bed covers, quilts and garments. This cloth is easy to wear in summer and keep the body cool during humid and hot weather/
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Decorative ribbon lace making
Lace making
Shazadi lace story
Ladies using sewing skill and making beautiful hand embellished laces with the help of ribbon, beads, crystal and diamontes. In Pakistan ladies wear dress with lot of embellishment so now days shops are full with different type of lace and braids these are all creation of our artisans who work at home and produce beautiful embellishments.Each Lace is a unique creative work.
Shazadi lace story
Ladies using sewing skill and making beautiful hand embellished laces with the help of ribbon, beads, crystal and diamontes. In Pakistan ladies wear dress with lot of embellishment so now days shops are full with different type of lace and braids these are all creation of our artisans who work at home and produce beautiful embellishments.Each Lace is a unique creative work.
Thursday, November 25, 2010
A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization
Swati embroidery
Swati embroidery has a great significance and has won a unique status due to its innovative and creative. In the past when modern embroidery accessories were not easily available, pure silver yarn was used in embroidery and the dresses decorated this way were very heavy. As most of the females remain in the boundaries of their home in the values driven society of Swat, they have adopted this art as their past time especially the young girls who have not yet been married. These talented girls of the artistic valley of Swat decorate and adore all the dresses, shawls, blankets, bed sheets, pillow covers, table cloths, veils, head scarves, handkerchiefs, and caps etc which were to become a part of their dowry after their marriage. The verses, mosaics, natural landscapes, animals, flowers, fruits, vines and artistic symmetries created through crochet by these aesthetic girls are the most sought after works of embroidery in Swat. The golden lace embroidery of Swat has acquired a distinct recognition in the valley.
Soof stitch is highly sophisticated embroidery which means triangle. It is done with very fine surface satin stitching worked in only geometric forms, particularly the triangle, which gets composed so that they resemble hills. The counting the threads to make perfect triangle is key to this type of stitch. Mostly shawls are decorated with this kind of embroidery or created on a plain fabric and used as border for dresses.
Swati ladies stitch their clothes manually with the help of needles. They would stitch the dress from the reverse side and then double stitching was made on the dress. The bridal dresses were provided with impressive stitching/design on the collar and on the boundaries with colorful threads. This embroidery was known as chashmi bulbul (nightingale’s eye or mother eye).the stitches used are satin stitch, chain stitch and also embellished with shell and beads.
Swati embroidery has a great significance and has won a unique status due to its innovative and creative. In the past when modern embroidery accessories were not easily available, pure silver yarn was used in embroidery and the dresses decorated this way were very heavy. As most of the females remain in the boundaries of their home in the values driven society of Swat, they have adopted this art as their past time especially the young girls who have not yet been married. These talented girls of the artistic valley of Swat decorate and adore all the dresses, shawls, blankets, bed sheets, pillow covers, table cloths, veils, head scarves, handkerchiefs, and caps etc which were to become a part of their dowry after their marriage. The verses, mosaics, natural landscapes, animals, flowers, fruits, vines and artistic symmetries created through crochet by these aesthetic girls are the most sought after works of embroidery in Swat. The golden lace embroidery of Swat has acquired a distinct recognition in the valley.
Soof stitch is highly sophisticated embroidery which means triangle. It is done with very fine surface satin stitching worked in only geometric forms, particularly the triangle, which gets composed so that they resemble hills. The counting the threads to make perfect triangle is key to this type of stitch. Mostly shawls are decorated with this kind of embroidery or created on a plain fabric and used as border for dresses.
Swati ladies stitch their clothes manually with the help of needles. They would stitch the dress from the reverse side and then double stitching was made on the dress. The bridal dresses were provided with impressive stitching/design on the collar and on the boundaries with colorful threads. This embroidery was known as chashmi bulbul (nightingale’s eye or mother eye).the stitches used are satin stitch, chain stitch and also embellished with shell and beads.
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization
Embroidery stitches from Baluchistan:
Story of EWM artisans
Saba Humayun ,Team leader of EWM runs a small school near the mountains,mostly children who attend this school resides there and come every day to get education so their mothers come and work on bead work products bags,pouches,belts etc.their manufactured products were sold at EWM exhibitions aboard.
lets discuss the embroidery stitches of that region:
Baluchi rail pati
Mostly chain stitch and Soof stitch are used in this embroidery style. This design of embroidery resembles a rail track. The main stitch is herringbone as it is faster to fill other stitches used are an elongated darn and chain-cum-interlacing.
Kacha pakka sheesha work
This type of embroidery is called ‘pakka’ which means solid because the embroidery on these areas is very densely stitched on the ground fabric. Then the edge is done with herring born stitch loosely and called Kacha. This technique a variety of stitching techniques is used like satin, herringbone, square-chain, cross and couched stitches. They use glass mirrors in various shapes: round, rhomboid, rectangular, square, triangular, and beak shaped. The stitches are square chain interlaced with buttonhole for mirror work, single chain, knot, Romanian; blanket interlaced with herringbone, running, and double running.
Ari work or Chain stitch work motifs
This type of embroidery is mostly done with ari tool and chain stitch is used. The special needle is inserted into the fabric at a 90 degree angle, and then the thread is pulled through and again the needle is inserted, this time from the underside to the surface; again, the thread is pulled through. A thimble is not usually required to avoid injury with this method, but is sometimes used to make pushing the needle through easier. A frame or hoop called a adaha is used. A mounted hoop or frame makes the work faster, such that both hands are free for the embroidery. The dominant hand is held under the fabric, the non-dominant hand above it, and the needle is handled by each respective hand without necessity for hand position changes. This embroidery is also called as AARI Work which is like a chain stitch.
Nehran pati
Nehran(river) pati or Kharek work, literally means "fruit of the date palm", is made with narrow bars of satin stitches, closely laid together to form triangles, small squares and other geometrical figures, like an outlining and a filling-in stitching.
Story of EWM artisans
Saba Humayun ,Team leader of EWM runs a small school near the mountains,mostly children who attend this school resides there and come every day to get education so their mothers come and work on bead work products bags,pouches,belts etc.their manufactured products were sold at EWM exhibitions aboard.
lets discuss the embroidery stitches of that region:
Baluchi rail pati
Mostly chain stitch and Soof stitch are used in this embroidery style. This design of embroidery resembles a rail track. The main stitch is herringbone as it is faster to fill other stitches used are an elongated darn and chain-cum-interlacing.
Kacha pakka sheesha work
This type of embroidery is called ‘pakka’ which means solid because the embroidery on these areas is very densely stitched on the ground fabric. Then the edge is done with herring born stitch loosely and called Kacha. This technique a variety of stitching techniques is used like satin, herringbone, square-chain, cross and couched stitches. They use glass mirrors in various shapes: round, rhomboid, rectangular, square, triangular, and beak shaped. The stitches are square chain interlaced with buttonhole for mirror work, single chain, knot, Romanian; blanket interlaced with herringbone, running, and double running.
Ari work or Chain stitch work motifs
This type of embroidery is mostly done with ari tool and chain stitch is used. The special needle is inserted into the fabric at a 90 degree angle, and then the thread is pulled through and again the needle is inserted, this time from the underside to the surface; again, the thread is pulled through. A thimble is not usually required to avoid injury with this method, but is sometimes used to make pushing the needle through easier. A frame or hoop called a adaha is used. A mounted hoop or frame makes the work faster, such that both hands are free for the embroidery. The dominant hand is held under the fabric, the non-dominant hand above it, and the needle is handled by each respective hand without necessity for hand position changes. This embroidery is also called as AARI Work which is like a chain stitch.
Nehran pati
Nehran(river) pati or Kharek work, literally means "fruit of the date palm", is made with narrow bars of satin stitches, closely laid together to form triangles, small squares and other geometrical figures, like an outlining and a filling-in stitching.
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Festival of Muslims
Bakra Eid-or Eid -ul-Zuba or Eid-ul-Azha it means feast of sacrifice
This Eid has great religious significance and is an occasion of sacrifice. This festival is an occasion to remember Allah (GOD) for all the good fortune bestowed on us. This feeling is confirmed by sharing your good fortune with less fortunate ones. On this day, animal sacrifice is performed by slaughtering it and the meat is distributed among the poor and needy people.
Legend of Eid-ul-Azha
It is believed that Allah asked Hazrat Ibrahim(Abraham) to sacrifice his only son Ismail. To follow the God’s commandment, he took to sacrifice his beloved son but unable to bear to see the act of sacrifice, he blindfolded himself. When he removed the blindfolded, he saw a lamb lay slaughtered there and his son was alright. Then he understood that god wished to test his willingness to sacrifice his beloved object. This incident stated that God wants man to sacrifice his will and self. Bakra-Eid is such an occasion to reaffirm this belief. Sacrificing of animal and distributing its meat to poor ones reasserts the spirit of sacrifice. It is said that according to the customs, meat has to be divided into three equal parts among the family, friends and neighbors and deprived people. Muslims visit houses of their near and dear ones on this festival to celebrate the festival in the best way. Delicious food, desserts and beverages are cooked and served on this festival to family & friends who visit any Muslims house so Bakra-Eid is celebrated in Islamic month of Dhul Hijjah. It is celebrated for three days; from tenth to twelfth day of this month.
Rituals of Eid-ul-Azha
Muslims all over the world sacrifice goat on this day and pilgrims to Mount Mina , near Mecca , perform animal sacrifice there. As per Muslim rituals, any Muslim, who can afford two square meals a day or possesses more than 400 gms of gold, should make a animal sacrifice. Besides goat, sheep, camel or any other four legged animal can be sacrificed. It is performed any of three days of festivities but before afternoon of third day. Meat is divided in three parts and one is kept for self, other for friends and third on for the needy ones. Muslims visit Mosques to offer prayers. They wear new clothes and prepare other delicacies of Eid and share with their friends and relatives. all the Muslims celebrate this festival with great enthusiasm. Festivities mark the first day, when people wear new clothes, offer prayers at the mosque, and greet friends and relatives. The celebrations are carried on through three days to ensure that the entire Muslim community take part in the noble of act of giving and sharing. Bakra-Id is celebrated all over sub-continual with much zeal and gusto, as it is in the rest of the Islamic world. The feast of Bakra-Id is an occasion to give and to sacrifice. It is a day to thank the Almighty for one's good fortune and to share it with the less fortunate people. The animal sacrifices made during BakraEiId are mainly to provide food to the poor and to mark the noble act of Ibrahim.
Eid Mubarak
This Eid has great religious significance and is an occasion of sacrifice. This festival is an occasion to remember Allah (GOD) for all the good fortune bestowed on us. This feeling is confirmed by sharing your good fortune with less fortunate ones. On this day, animal sacrifice is performed by slaughtering it and the meat is distributed among the poor and needy people.
Legend of Eid-ul-Azha
It is believed that Allah asked Hazrat Ibrahim(Abraham) to sacrifice his only son Ismail. To follow the God’s commandment, he took to sacrifice his beloved son but unable to bear to see the act of sacrifice, he blindfolded himself. When he removed the blindfolded, he saw a lamb lay slaughtered there and his son was alright. Then he understood that god wished to test his willingness to sacrifice his beloved object. This incident stated that God wants man to sacrifice his will and self. Bakra-Eid is such an occasion to reaffirm this belief. Sacrificing of animal and distributing its meat to poor ones reasserts the spirit of sacrifice. It is said that according to the customs, meat has to be divided into three equal parts among the family, friends and neighbors and deprived people. Muslims visit houses of their near and dear ones on this festival to celebrate the festival in the best way. Delicious food, desserts and beverages are cooked and served on this festival to family & friends who visit any Muslims house so Bakra-Eid is celebrated in Islamic month of Dhul Hijjah. It is celebrated for three days; from tenth to twelfth day of this month.
Rituals of Eid-ul-Azha
Muslims all over the world sacrifice goat on this day and pilgrims to Mount Mina , near Mecca , perform animal sacrifice there. As per Muslim rituals, any Muslim, who can afford two square meals a day or possesses more than 400 gms of gold, should make a animal sacrifice. Besides goat, sheep, camel or any other four legged animal can be sacrificed. It is performed any of three days of festivities but before afternoon of third day. Meat is divided in three parts and one is kept for self, other for friends and third on for the needy ones. Muslims visit Mosques to offer prayers. They wear new clothes and prepare other delicacies of Eid and share with their friends and relatives. all the Muslims celebrate this festival with great enthusiasm. Festivities mark the first day, when people wear new clothes, offer prayers at the mosque, and greet friends and relatives. The celebrations are carried on through three days to ensure that the entire Muslim community take part in the noble of act of giving and sharing. Bakra-Id is celebrated all over sub-continual with much zeal and gusto, as it is in the rest of the Islamic world. The feast of Bakra-Id is an occasion to give and to sacrifice. It is a day to thank the Almighty for one's good fortune and to share it with the less fortunate people. The animal sacrifices made during BakraEiId are mainly to provide food to the poor and to mark the noble act of Ibrahim.
Eid Mubarak
Friday, November 12, 2010
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