Soof Stitch in Swati Embroidery

A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization

Swati embroidery



Swati embroidery has a great significance and has won a unique status due to its innovative and creative. In the past when modern embroidery accessories were not easily available, pure silver yarn was used in embroidery and the dresses decorated this way were very heavy. As most of the females remain in the boundaries of their home in the values driven society of Swat, they have adopted this art as their past time especially the young girls who have not yet been married. These talented girls of the artistic valley of Swat decorate and adore all the dresses, shawls, blankets, bed sheets, pillow covers, table cloths, veils, head scarves, handkerchiefs, and caps etc which were to become a part of their dowry after their marriage. The verses, mosaics, natural landscapes, animals, flowers, fruits, vines and artistic symmetries created through crochet by these aesthetic girls are the most sought after works of embroidery in Swat. The golden lace embroidery of Swat has acquired a distinct recognition in the valley.
Soof stitch is highly sophisticated embroidery which means triangle. It is done with very fine surface satin stitching worked in only geometric forms, particularly the triangle, which gets composed so that they resemble hills. The counting the threads to make perfect triangle is key to this type of stitch. Mostly shawls are decorated with this kind of embroidery or created on a plain fabric and used as border for dresses.

Swati ladies stitch their clothes manually with the help of needles. They would stitch the dress from the reverse side and then double stitching was made on the dress. The bridal dresses were provided with impressive stitching/design on the collar and on the boundaries with colorful threads. This embroidery was known as chashmi bulbul (nightingale’s eye or mother eye).the stitches used are satin stitch, chain stitch and also embellished with shell and beads.

Ari work Wallet in pure leather

Baluchi Stitches

A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization

Embroidery stitches from Baluchistan:
Story of EWM artisans
Saba Humayun ,Team leader of EWM runs a small school near the mountains,mostly children who attend this school resides there and come every day to get education so their mothers come and work on bead work products bags,pouches,belts etc.their manufactured products were sold at EWM exhibitions aboard.
lets discuss the embroidery stitches of that region:


Baluchi rail pati


Mostly chain stitch and Soof stitch are used in this embroidery style. This design of embroidery resembles a rail track. The main stitch is herringbone as it is faster to fill other stitches used are an elongated darn and chain-cum-interlacing.

Kacha pakka sheesha work

This type of embroidery is called ‘pakka’ which means solid because the embroidery on these areas is very densely stitched on the ground fabric. Then the edge is done with herring born stitch loosely and called Kacha. This technique a variety of stitching techniques is used like satin, herringbone, square-chain, cross and couched stitches. They use glass mirrors in various shapes: round, rhomboid, rectangular, square, triangular, and beak shaped. The stitches are square chain interlaced with buttonhole for mirror work, single chain, knot, Romanian; blanket interlaced with herringbone, running, and double running.
Ari work or Chain stitch work motifs
This type of embroidery is mostly done with ari tool and chain stitch is used. The special needle is inserted into the fabric at a 90 degree angle, and then the thread is pulled through and again the needle is inserted, this time from the underside to the surface; again, the thread is pulled through. A thimble is not usually required to avoid injury with this method, but is sometimes used to make pushing the needle through easier. A frame or hoop called a adaha is used. A mounted hoop or frame makes the work faster, such that both hands are free for the embroidery. The dominant hand is held under the fabric, the non-dominant hand above it, and the needle is handled by each respective hand without necessity for hand position changes. This embroidery is also called as AARI Work which is like a chain stitch.

Nehran pati

Nehran(river) pati or Kharek work, literally means "fruit of the date palm", is made with narrow bars of satin stitches, closely laid together to form triangles, small squares and other geometrical figures, like an outlining and a filling-in stitching.

Qurbani on Bakra-Eid

Qurbani on Bakra-Eid

Festival of Muslims

Bakra Eid-or Eid -ul-Zuba or Eid-ul-Azha it means feast of sacrifice


This Eid has great religious significance and is an occasion of sacrifice. This festival is an occasion to remember Allah (GOD) for all the good fortune bestowed on us. This feeling is confirmed by sharing your good fortune with less fortunate ones. On this day, animal sacrifice is performed by slaughtering it and the meat is distributed among the poor and needy people.

Legend of Eid-ul-Azha

It is believed that Allah asked Hazrat Ibrahim(Abraham) to sacrifice his only son Ismail. To follow the God’s commandment, he took to sacrifice his beloved son but unable to bear to see the act of sacrifice, he blindfolded himself. When he removed the blindfolded, he saw a lamb lay slaughtered there and his son was alright. Then he understood that god wished to test his willingness to sacrifice his beloved object. This incident stated that God wants man to sacrifice his will and self. Bakra-Eid is such an occasion to reaffirm this belief. Sacrificing of animal and distributing its meat to poor ones reasserts the spirit of sacrifice. It is said that according to the customs, meat has to be divided into three equal parts among the family, friends and neighbors and deprived people. Muslims visit houses of their near and dear ones on this festival to celebrate the festival in the best way. Delicious food, desserts and beverages are cooked and served on this festival to family & friends who visit any Muslims house so Bakra-Eid is celebrated in Islamic month of Dhul Hijjah. It is celebrated for three days; from tenth to twelfth day of this month.

Rituals of Eid-ul-Azha

Muslims all over the world sacrifice goat on this day and pilgrims to Mount Mina , near Mecca , perform animal sacrifice there. As per Muslim rituals, any Muslim, who can afford two square meals a day or possesses more than 400 gms of gold, should make a animal sacrifice. Besides goat, sheep, camel or any other four legged animal can be sacrificed. It is performed any of three days of festivities but before afternoon of third day. Meat is divided in three parts and one is kept for self, other for friends and third on for the needy ones. Muslims visit Mosques to offer prayers. They wear new clothes and prepare other delicacies of Eid and share with their friends and relatives. all the Muslims celebrate this festival with great enthusiasm. Festivities mark the first day, when people wear new clothes, offer prayers at the mosque, and greet friends and relatives. The celebrations are carried on through three days to ensure that the entire Muslim community take part in the noble of act of giving and sharing. Bakra-Id is celebrated all over sub-continual with much zeal and gusto, as it is in the rest of the Islamic world. The feast of Bakra-Id is an occasion to give and to sacrifice. It is a day to thank the Almighty for one's good fortune and to share it with the less fortunate people. The animal sacrifices made during BakraEiId are mainly to provide food to the poor and to mark the noble act of Ibrahim.

Eid Mubarak

Bullion Stitch with french knots Sampler

Embroideries

Pakistan has rich tradition in hand embroideries; they are exquisite, hand-crafted with variety of style & in design. its talented artisans produce creative embroidery with high degrees of craftsmanship although there are time consuming task but still seen in Pakistani cultural as this is much appreciated and valued . Pakistani Ladies mostly wear embroidered dresses as the streets of big cities are scattered with small embroidery outlet where you can select your own design and color palette with small details. The world of embroidery in Pakistan is so diverse; you can never tire of the array of combinations and the fantastic displays of creativity.Embroidery skill is a source for income for many, special women living in small town and villages.
Different region has different embroideries so East World Market explore the story of embroiders and their creativity .
Rashidi Bibi and her team lives in a area where the Nawab of  Ahmedpur lives for centuries,this town has own cultural background ,there runs a small embroidery centre by Creative artisans help by EWM Care progam.EWM provide work and raw materal to the team.

Punjab: its embroidery varieties with their intricate and unique regional design structures along with various kinds of mixed stitches and colors add to the glamour and help to create new fashion along   concepts like kurtis, tops, dresses and scarves.


Area: Multan, Dera Ghazi Khan, Dera Ismail Khan, Bahawalpur,Ahmedpura


Embroidery Stitches Satin Stitch,Cross Stitch,French Knot,Lazy Daisy,Button hole,Stem Stitch.,Running, looped, laced interlaced, whipped, parallel running stitch or daring stitch.
EWM reseach Stitches Family & writing the local name given to these stitches by our artisans.


Tarkashi means threads of silk and mostly satin stitch, straight stitch (running stitch) is done in this type of embroidery.
Kacha boor work: Kacha means not solid and boor means spray so straight stitch is done and motifs filling are done with small straight stitches and out line by stem stitch.

Pakka work: pakka means "pure" or "solid", refers to the solid, permanent materials of their surroundings, the stones; it is done with tight square chain and double buttonhole stitching in geometric and floral patterns.
a. pakka suraj(sun), pakka phool(flower),pakka Marori, pakka moti tanka
Open Jali work: jali means a frame and stitches used in this type of technique is buttonhole and stem stitch.

Chikan boota natural motif of flower is means Boota here its refer as "rain of flowers"; with a combination of pakka and Soof (triangle) stitching rich blooming and sun like flowers are represented, an expression for longing for beauty, welfare and prosperity. In this type of embroidery satin stitch is used. In the centre of a flower, the stitch is done diagonally and makes a hole.

Peeli (Knot) tanka network French knots used

Crystal work pakka and boota work done with use of crystal to enhance the beauty of embroidery.

Sequins and beads net work
In this type of embroidery we use sequins and beads along with thread making a combination of both materials.
Mukesh work
Silver or Golden metalic thread is used and usually done with specail kind of needle which has two holes on top.
Phulkari work
Phulkari means flower work. This type of embroidery is striking feature of Punjabi culture. In a single stitch interesting pattern on the cloth is embroidered. Smaller stitch indicates fine quality of the embroidery. Usually silken threads in golden yellow, red, crimson, orange, green, blue, and pink are used for Phulkari. Bagh means garden.

There are different types of phulkari

* Sober Phulkari is a worn by a bride during marriage ceremonies; it comprises five motifs, one in the center and one each in the four corners. *Chamba Phulkari is a hybrid having a series of stylized leaves, wavy creepers and flowers. Chamba is a name of flower.

* Dhaniya bagh (coriander garden), satranga bagh (garden of rainbow), *motia bagh (jasmine garden),

* Leheria bagh (garden of waves)

Simple darning stitches are formed using un-spun silk floss yarn known as 'pat'. For this, single strand threads are made for the perfection, intricacy and delicacy in designs. The stitches may be vertical horizontal or diagonal, depending on the variation and shading that is needed. The process of doing the embroidery is quite exhaustive and only professional and experienced hands can come up with stunning designs.

Menthedana : Menthe is term for the fenugreek seed. The stitch used in this style is regular cross-stitch. The stitches look like the fenugreek seeds and usually spread all over the design.

Ganjah stitch is puff up with thread and a special technique is used by putting a needle in between.
Ribbon Work
Thin ribbon are twisted into different style then stitch with needle and thread.
Gota Work
Gota is a thin ribbon made with  silk thread and metallic thread together.Weaving the work into different style is beauty of this embroidery 

A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization

A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization


The history of textiles & embroideries are very rich in Pakistan. Women may live in the snowy mountains, barn desert and green valley’s are born with creative spirit in each environment they infuse heart and creative spirit into weaving and embroidery. To wearing a dress with the embroidery is the custom of the village women and nowadays fashion designers making style with embroideries. Embroidered with different stitches such as satin stitch, chain stitches, canvas stitches and using glass pieces in between the work are common techniques.

In the village the ladies work together like a team and thus strength their friends by sharing the language of stitches and exchange motifs and patterns. It’s a tradition that a bride carries with her linen embroidered by her in dowries. In Pakistani embroidery each design and techniques tells an origin, tribal affiliation and identity of the woman who created the piece of art.

One of the world longest river flows in Pakistan region and called Indus River, the civilizations flourished along the banks as early as 2600BC, the Mohon-jo-dero, Harappa sites excavations has the traces of textile and embroidered patterns, today also same river flows and provide a life line to millions of people from the icy mountain to the plains. The people who live along the Indus River enrich the world with variety of cultures, religions, languages and artistic expressions. The expressions of creativity by embroideries are done for centuries as this has been practiced by the people of Pakistan since antiquity. Copper Needles for embroidery were found in the Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa excavations. Beautiful embroideries produced at the court workshops of the Mughal were distinguished for their excellent quality and artistic merit. Their embroideries embellished numerous curtains, canopies, and drapes. Extremely fine silk embroideries were made on a cotton base. The designs of these objects, including branches, flowering plants then decorated court costumes: belts, shawls, and turbans.