The tale of Textile from Indus Civilization
Pakistan textile enjoys a rich heritage and the origin of textiles has traces back to the Indus valley Civilization. The handloom weavers of Pakistan have been spinning their magic for thousands of years. Cotton and silk fabrics produced today carry on century’s old tradition in design and craftsmanship incorporating modern quality and design techniques. Pakistan is famous for cotton crops and export cotton to other countries also.
Traditionally fiber is taken from plants or animals, for example cotton from cotton seed pods, linen from flax stems, wool from sheep hair, or silk from the spun cocoons of silkworms. In addition to these traditional materials, synthetic materials such as plastic acrylic are now used In order for the fiber to be made into cloth or clothing, it must be spun (or twisted) into a strand known as yarn. When the yarn is ready and dyed for use it can be made into cloth in a number of ways. Knitting and crochet are common methods of twisting and shaping the yarn into garments or fabric. The most common use of yarn to make cloth is weaved fabric called as Khadi or Khaddar, this type of fabric is coarse and bit loosely woven. Just for my reader information that in weaving, the yarn is wrapped on a frame called a loom and pulled taut vertically. This is known as the warp. Then another strand of yarn is worked back and forth wrapping over and under the warp. This wrapped yarn is called the weft. Most art and commercial textiles are made by this process but power loom are used to produce all type of fabric.
Let me describe the different type of weaving done in Pakistan as this information is given by Artisans (Muna Shamsuddin and family) of East World Market ,who are manufacturer of handloom material in Orangi Town.
Jamawar
“Jama” means robe and “war” is yard. The base of the jamawar is mostly silk thread called resham, with a little addition of polyester. The brocaded parts are woven in similar threads of silk and polyester. Most of the designs seen today are floral or with a traditional pattern called the kairy (the paisley) .Pakistan has the best woven material in Jamawar and this is mostly used for bridal dresses. Since this is a delicate fabric because of its texture and pattern. It get entangle easily with metallic embroidery and jewelry so care should be taken while wearing it. Now days the weaving of Jamawar in Pakistan is done on the jacquard loom. The pattas, which are the punched cards, controlled the actions of the loom, allowing automatic production of intricate woven patterns. The bigger the motif, the greater the number of cards required to make them. Another big change were brought about in 1985 in weaving where the source of inspiration was the Chinese Shanghai cloth. The patterns of the Chinese Shanghai were amended in accordance to the weave construction of the jamawar cloth.
Jamdani' - the great characteristic of fine art in hand weaving derived from a "PERSION" word 'JAM' meaning a 'cup' and 'DANI' denotes the 'container' . Jamdani weaving style flourished under rich and enlightened patronage of Mughal emperors. Excellence in weaving techniques the figured muslin with delicate motifs worked on by deft fingers, needed besides skill, unlimited patience, and one yard of cloth sometimes taking months to weave. The "Mughals" recognized this excellence art but kept the product rare to common people .this type of weaving also common in India & Bangladesh. The handloom weaves of Pakistan have been spinning their magic for generations. Cotton and silk fabrics produced today carry on century’s old tradition in design and craftsmanship incorporating modern quality and design techniques. The weavers are not only expert craftsmen, but artists who capture the spirit of the past in the unique traditional designs through bold use of colors and textures. There is also an enthusiasm for experimentation with new ideas and styles which is evident in the variety of designs and fabrics produced by the handloom industry.
Sussi
The wonders of handloom include: sussi, striped and checked material in cotton. The cloth is distinguished by its intricate stripes, char-khana (four squares) or jal of botis (flowers) all a piece of art in textile handloom .Mostly this type of fabrics are used to make bed spread or Jacket ,vest and pajamas called Shalwar .This is a traditional rural crafts of Sindh.. The pattern was evolved centuries ago. Presently Gumbat and Tando Mohammad Khan in Sindh are the leading production centers . A large number of colors and patterns are used in weaving Sussi cloth. In recent times there has been a trend away from pure cotton Sussi to silk and synthetic blends as well and this make the cloth more popular because now it shrink less.
Brocade
This is another beautiful fine handspun creation of silk interwoven with gold or silver threads in a rainbow of colors and thread.
Silk brocades, texturally, are divided mainly into two groups:
Kamkhwab
Kam means little or scarcely. Khwab means a dream and it’s said that even with such a name ‘Its beauty, splendor and elegance can be hardly dreamt of’. Kamkhwab are heavy fabrics or several layers of warp threads with an elaborate all-over pattern of extra weft, which may be of silk, gold and / or silver threads or combinations. There may be three to seven layers of warp threads. (Tipara means three layers and Chaupara means four layers to Satpara meaning seven layers). Kin means golden in Chinese. Its specialty is in profusely using the gold and silver thread in a manner that sometimes leaves the silk background hardly visible.
Katan
These are called Katan (a thread prepared by twisting a different number of silk filaments) brocades; they are lighter in textures (lower thread count) than Kamkhwab but loosely woven in silk and has certain portions of zari (metallic thread) work as a pattern. These fabrics are mostly used for making garments and now days also used in home furnishing.
Zari wala silk or Zari wala georgette
Zari is generally of two types Badla and Kala batto. Badla Zari was made of flattened gold or silver wire with the ancient method of making zari from pure metal without any core thread. This accounted for its peculiar stiffness. Sometimes cracks would develop in the metal during the process of weaving which resulted in the loss of its natural luster and smoothness. Therefore weaving with Badla Zari was difficult and required great skill. Often a touch of Badla was given to floral motives to enhance the beauty. This type of zari has mostly gone out of favor amongst the contemporary weavers and they mostly depend on polyester or pure silk as a substitute. This thread can also be twisted with gold threads in order to make zari. The zari fiber is doubled with the yarn to prepare it for the process of weaving. Another reason for twisting the zari fiber is to reduce its excessive shine. The zari fiber is wrapped on reels and is doubled with the yarn with the help of a machine, on cones. These fibers are then wrapped on reels with the help of a doubling machine. The threads are then steamed and wrapped on the final spools. The required threads (silk, zari, etc) are then taken to the charkha, which is a machine used to make the warp for the weaving process. This type fabric is used to make headscarf ( dupattas)or dresses for ladies.
Khes Weaving
Khes is a weaved fabric .different pattern and color s of threads are used there a bit thick in texture as its used as blanket in summer or chilly winter night. its soft and can be used from both side .the beauty of this type of weaving that all done on small handloom mostly done by women in the privacy of their home. Khes is a traditional craft of Khairpur. Centuries ago to meet the need for a cotton blanket, it was an important item of export during the Mughal period. Presently Khes are used throughout Pakistan as bed covers, curtains, table cloths, floor coverings and sheets. Best know Khes come from Gumbat, nasarpur and Sukkur. Now a day the weaver started weaving shawl as there are in great demand.
KHADDAR:
Khaddar or Khadi is the simplest cotton wear and is described generally as coarse cloth. Until recently Khaddar was among the region’s major exports to Central Asia. Khaddar comes in a wide range of thickness, texture and design and is marketed in yardage for upholstery drapery, bed covers, quilts and garments. This cloth is easy to wear in summer and keep the body cool during humid and hot weather/
Kausar Iqbal love to share our rich eastern culture and traditions. Here we will share our artisans story & crafts techniques
Friday, December 10, 2010
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Decorative ribbon lace making
Lace making
Shazadi lace story
Ladies using sewing skill and making beautiful hand embellished laces with the help of ribbon, beads, crystal and diamontes. In Pakistan ladies wear dress with lot of embellishment so now days shops are full with different type of lace and braids these are all creation of our artisans who work at home and produce beautiful embellishments.Each Lace is a unique creative work.
Shazadi lace story
Ladies using sewing skill and making beautiful hand embellished laces with the help of ribbon, beads, crystal and diamontes. In Pakistan ladies wear dress with lot of embellishment so now days shops are full with different type of lace and braids these are all creation of our artisans who work at home and produce beautiful embellishments.Each Lace is a unique creative work.
Thursday, November 25, 2010
A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization
Swati embroidery
Swati embroidery has a great significance and has won a unique status due to its innovative and creative. In the past when modern embroidery accessories were not easily available, pure silver yarn was used in embroidery and the dresses decorated this way were very heavy. As most of the females remain in the boundaries of their home in the values driven society of Swat, they have adopted this art as their past time especially the young girls who have not yet been married. These talented girls of the artistic valley of Swat decorate and adore all the dresses, shawls, blankets, bed sheets, pillow covers, table cloths, veils, head scarves, handkerchiefs, and caps etc which were to become a part of their dowry after their marriage. The verses, mosaics, natural landscapes, animals, flowers, fruits, vines and artistic symmetries created through crochet by these aesthetic girls are the most sought after works of embroidery in Swat. The golden lace embroidery of Swat has acquired a distinct recognition in the valley.
Soof stitch is highly sophisticated embroidery which means triangle. It is done with very fine surface satin stitching worked in only geometric forms, particularly the triangle, which gets composed so that they resemble hills. The counting the threads to make perfect triangle is key to this type of stitch. Mostly shawls are decorated with this kind of embroidery or created on a plain fabric and used as border for dresses.
Swati ladies stitch their clothes manually with the help of needles. They would stitch the dress from the reverse side and then double stitching was made on the dress. The bridal dresses were provided with impressive stitching/design on the collar and on the boundaries with colorful threads. This embroidery was known as chashmi bulbul (nightingale’s eye or mother eye).the stitches used are satin stitch, chain stitch and also embellished with shell and beads.
Swati embroidery has a great significance and has won a unique status due to its innovative and creative. In the past when modern embroidery accessories were not easily available, pure silver yarn was used in embroidery and the dresses decorated this way were very heavy. As most of the females remain in the boundaries of their home in the values driven society of Swat, they have adopted this art as their past time especially the young girls who have not yet been married. These talented girls of the artistic valley of Swat decorate and adore all the dresses, shawls, blankets, bed sheets, pillow covers, table cloths, veils, head scarves, handkerchiefs, and caps etc which were to become a part of their dowry after their marriage. The verses, mosaics, natural landscapes, animals, flowers, fruits, vines and artistic symmetries created through crochet by these aesthetic girls are the most sought after works of embroidery in Swat. The golden lace embroidery of Swat has acquired a distinct recognition in the valley.
Soof stitch is highly sophisticated embroidery which means triangle. It is done with very fine surface satin stitching worked in only geometric forms, particularly the triangle, which gets composed so that they resemble hills. The counting the threads to make perfect triangle is key to this type of stitch. Mostly shawls are decorated with this kind of embroidery or created on a plain fabric and used as border for dresses.
Swati ladies stitch their clothes manually with the help of needles. They would stitch the dress from the reverse side and then double stitching was made on the dress. The bridal dresses were provided with impressive stitching/design on the collar and on the boundaries with colorful threads. This embroidery was known as chashmi bulbul (nightingale’s eye or mother eye).the stitches used are satin stitch, chain stitch and also embellished with shell and beads.
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization
Embroidery stitches from Baluchistan:
Story of EWM artisans
Saba Humayun ,Team leader of EWM runs a small school near the mountains,mostly children who attend this school resides there and come every day to get education so their mothers come and work on bead work products bags,pouches,belts etc.their manufactured products were sold at EWM exhibitions aboard.
lets discuss the embroidery stitches of that region:
Baluchi rail pati
Mostly chain stitch and Soof stitch are used in this embroidery style. This design of embroidery resembles a rail track. The main stitch is herringbone as it is faster to fill other stitches used are an elongated darn and chain-cum-interlacing.
Kacha pakka sheesha work
This type of embroidery is called ‘pakka’ which means solid because the embroidery on these areas is very densely stitched on the ground fabric. Then the edge is done with herring born stitch loosely and called Kacha. This technique a variety of stitching techniques is used like satin, herringbone, square-chain, cross and couched stitches. They use glass mirrors in various shapes: round, rhomboid, rectangular, square, triangular, and beak shaped. The stitches are square chain interlaced with buttonhole for mirror work, single chain, knot, Romanian; blanket interlaced with herringbone, running, and double running.
Ari work or Chain stitch work motifs
This type of embroidery is mostly done with ari tool and chain stitch is used. The special needle is inserted into the fabric at a 90 degree angle, and then the thread is pulled through and again the needle is inserted, this time from the underside to the surface; again, the thread is pulled through. A thimble is not usually required to avoid injury with this method, but is sometimes used to make pushing the needle through easier. A frame or hoop called a adaha is used. A mounted hoop or frame makes the work faster, such that both hands are free for the embroidery. The dominant hand is held under the fabric, the non-dominant hand above it, and the needle is handled by each respective hand without necessity for hand position changes. This embroidery is also called as AARI Work which is like a chain stitch.
Nehran pati
Nehran(river) pati or Kharek work, literally means "fruit of the date palm", is made with narrow bars of satin stitches, closely laid together to form triangles, small squares and other geometrical figures, like an outlining and a filling-in stitching.
Story of EWM artisans
Saba Humayun ,Team leader of EWM runs a small school near the mountains,mostly children who attend this school resides there and come every day to get education so their mothers come and work on bead work products bags,pouches,belts etc.their manufactured products were sold at EWM exhibitions aboard.
lets discuss the embroidery stitches of that region:
Baluchi rail pati
Mostly chain stitch and Soof stitch are used in this embroidery style. This design of embroidery resembles a rail track. The main stitch is herringbone as it is faster to fill other stitches used are an elongated darn and chain-cum-interlacing.
Kacha pakka sheesha work
This type of embroidery is called ‘pakka’ which means solid because the embroidery on these areas is very densely stitched on the ground fabric. Then the edge is done with herring born stitch loosely and called Kacha. This technique a variety of stitching techniques is used like satin, herringbone, square-chain, cross and couched stitches. They use glass mirrors in various shapes: round, rhomboid, rectangular, square, triangular, and beak shaped. The stitches are square chain interlaced with buttonhole for mirror work, single chain, knot, Romanian; blanket interlaced with herringbone, running, and double running.
Ari work or Chain stitch work motifs
This type of embroidery is mostly done with ari tool and chain stitch is used. The special needle is inserted into the fabric at a 90 degree angle, and then the thread is pulled through and again the needle is inserted, this time from the underside to the surface; again, the thread is pulled through. A thimble is not usually required to avoid injury with this method, but is sometimes used to make pushing the needle through easier. A frame or hoop called a adaha is used. A mounted hoop or frame makes the work faster, such that both hands are free for the embroidery. The dominant hand is held under the fabric, the non-dominant hand above it, and the needle is handled by each respective hand without necessity for hand position changes. This embroidery is also called as AARI Work which is like a chain stitch.
Nehran pati
Nehran(river) pati or Kharek work, literally means "fruit of the date palm", is made with narrow bars of satin stitches, closely laid together to form triangles, small squares and other geometrical figures, like an outlining and a filling-in stitching.
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Festival of Muslims
Bakra Eid-or Eid -ul-Zuba or Eid-ul-Azha it means feast of sacrifice
This Eid has great religious significance and is an occasion of sacrifice. This festival is an occasion to remember Allah (GOD) for all the good fortune bestowed on us. This feeling is confirmed by sharing your good fortune with less fortunate ones. On this day, animal sacrifice is performed by slaughtering it and the meat is distributed among the poor and needy people.
Legend of Eid-ul-Azha
It is believed that Allah asked Hazrat Ibrahim(Abraham) to sacrifice his only son Ismail. To follow the God’s commandment, he took to sacrifice his beloved son but unable to bear to see the act of sacrifice, he blindfolded himself. When he removed the blindfolded, he saw a lamb lay slaughtered there and his son was alright. Then he understood that god wished to test his willingness to sacrifice his beloved object. This incident stated that God wants man to sacrifice his will and self. Bakra-Eid is such an occasion to reaffirm this belief. Sacrificing of animal and distributing its meat to poor ones reasserts the spirit of sacrifice. It is said that according to the customs, meat has to be divided into three equal parts among the family, friends and neighbors and deprived people. Muslims visit houses of their near and dear ones on this festival to celebrate the festival in the best way. Delicious food, desserts and beverages are cooked and served on this festival to family & friends who visit any Muslims house so Bakra-Eid is celebrated in Islamic month of Dhul Hijjah. It is celebrated for three days; from tenth to twelfth day of this month.
Rituals of Eid-ul-Azha
Muslims all over the world sacrifice goat on this day and pilgrims to Mount Mina , near Mecca , perform animal sacrifice there. As per Muslim rituals, any Muslim, who can afford two square meals a day or possesses more than 400 gms of gold, should make a animal sacrifice. Besides goat, sheep, camel or any other four legged animal can be sacrificed. It is performed any of three days of festivities but before afternoon of third day. Meat is divided in three parts and one is kept for self, other for friends and third on for the needy ones. Muslims visit Mosques to offer prayers. They wear new clothes and prepare other delicacies of Eid and share with their friends and relatives. all the Muslims celebrate this festival with great enthusiasm. Festivities mark the first day, when people wear new clothes, offer prayers at the mosque, and greet friends and relatives. The celebrations are carried on through three days to ensure that the entire Muslim community take part in the noble of act of giving and sharing. Bakra-Id is celebrated all over sub-continual with much zeal and gusto, as it is in the rest of the Islamic world. The feast of Bakra-Id is an occasion to give and to sacrifice. It is a day to thank the Almighty for one's good fortune and to share it with the less fortunate people. The animal sacrifices made during BakraEiId are mainly to provide food to the poor and to mark the noble act of Ibrahim.
Eid Mubarak
This Eid has great religious significance and is an occasion of sacrifice. This festival is an occasion to remember Allah (GOD) for all the good fortune bestowed on us. This feeling is confirmed by sharing your good fortune with less fortunate ones. On this day, animal sacrifice is performed by slaughtering it and the meat is distributed among the poor and needy people.
Legend of Eid-ul-Azha
It is believed that Allah asked Hazrat Ibrahim(Abraham) to sacrifice his only son Ismail. To follow the God’s commandment, he took to sacrifice his beloved son but unable to bear to see the act of sacrifice, he blindfolded himself. When he removed the blindfolded, he saw a lamb lay slaughtered there and his son was alright. Then he understood that god wished to test his willingness to sacrifice his beloved object. This incident stated that God wants man to sacrifice his will and self. Bakra-Eid is such an occasion to reaffirm this belief. Sacrificing of animal and distributing its meat to poor ones reasserts the spirit of sacrifice. It is said that according to the customs, meat has to be divided into three equal parts among the family, friends and neighbors and deprived people. Muslims visit houses of their near and dear ones on this festival to celebrate the festival in the best way. Delicious food, desserts and beverages are cooked and served on this festival to family & friends who visit any Muslims house so Bakra-Eid is celebrated in Islamic month of Dhul Hijjah. It is celebrated for three days; from tenth to twelfth day of this month.
Rituals of Eid-ul-Azha
Muslims all over the world sacrifice goat on this day and pilgrims to Mount Mina , near Mecca , perform animal sacrifice there. As per Muslim rituals, any Muslim, who can afford two square meals a day or possesses more than 400 gms of gold, should make a animal sacrifice. Besides goat, sheep, camel or any other four legged animal can be sacrificed. It is performed any of three days of festivities but before afternoon of third day. Meat is divided in three parts and one is kept for self, other for friends and third on for the needy ones. Muslims visit Mosques to offer prayers. They wear new clothes and prepare other delicacies of Eid and share with their friends and relatives. all the Muslims celebrate this festival with great enthusiasm. Festivities mark the first day, when people wear new clothes, offer prayers at the mosque, and greet friends and relatives. The celebrations are carried on through three days to ensure that the entire Muslim community take part in the noble of act of giving and sharing. Bakra-Id is celebrated all over sub-continual with much zeal and gusto, as it is in the rest of the Islamic world. The feast of Bakra-Id is an occasion to give and to sacrifice. It is a day to thank the Almighty for one's good fortune and to share it with the less fortunate people. The animal sacrifices made during BakraEiId are mainly to provide food to the poor and to mark the noble act of Ibrahim.
Eid Mubarak
Friday, November 12, 2010
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Embroideries
Pakistan has rich tradition in hand embroideries; they are exquisite, hand-crafted with variety of style & in design. its talented artisans produce creative embroidery with high degrees of craftsmanship although there are time consuming task but still seen in Pakistani cultural as this is much appreciated and valued . Pakistani Ladies mostly wear embroidered dresses as the streets of big cities are scattered with small embroidery outlet where you can select your own design and color palette with small details. The world of embroidery in Pakistan is so diverse; you can never tire of the array of combinations and the fantastic displays of creativity.Embroidery skill is a source for income for many, special women living in small town and villages.
Different region has different embroideries so East World Market explore the story of embroiders and their creativity .
Rashidi Bibi and her team lives in a area where the Nawab of Ahmedpur lives for centuries,this town has own cultural background ,there runs a small embroidery centre by Creative artisans help by EWM Care progam.EWM provide work and raw materal to the team.
Punjab: its embroidery varieties with their intricate and unique regional design structures along with various kinds of mixed stitches and colors add to the glamour and help to create new fashion along concepts like kurtis, tops, dresses and scarves.
Area: Multan, Dera Ghazi Khan, Dera Ismail Khan, Bahawalpur,Ahmedpura
Embroidery Stitches Satin Stitch,Cross Stitch,French Knot,Lazy Daisy,Button hole,Stem Stitch.,Running, looped, laced interlaced, whipped, parallel running stitch or daring stitch.
EWM reseach Stitches Family & writing the local name given to these stitches by our artisans.
Tarkashi means threads of silk and mostly satin stitch, straight stitch (running stitch) is done in this type of embroidery.
Kacha boor work: Kacha means not solid and boor means spray so straight stitch is done and motifs filling are done with small straight stitches and out line by stem stitch.
Pakka work: pakka means "pure" or "solid", refers to the solid, permanent materials of their surroundings, the stones; it is done with tight square chain and double buttonhole stitching in geometric and floral patterns.
a. pakka suraj(sun), pakka phool(flower),pakka Marori, pakka moti tanka
Open Jali work: jali means a frame and stitches used in this type of technique is buttonhole and stem stitch.
Chikan boota natural motif of flower is means Boota here its refer as "rain of flowers"; with a combination of pakka and Soof (triangle) stitching rich blooming and sun like flowers are represented, an expression for longing for beauty, welfare and prosperity. In this type of embroidery satin stitch is used. In the centre of a flower, the stitch is done diagonally and makes a hole.
Peeli (Knot) tanka network French knots used
Crystal work pakka and boota work done with use of crystal to enhance the beauty of embroidery.
Sequins and beads net work
In this type of embroidery we use sequins and beads along with thread making a combination of both materials.
Mukesh work
Silver or Golden metalic thread is used and usually done with specail kind of needle which has two holes on top.
Phulkari work
Phulkari means flower work. This type of embroidery is striking feature of Punjabi culture. In a single stitch interesting pattern on the cloth is embroidered. Smaller stitch indicates fine quality of the embroidery. Usually silken threads in golden yellow, red, crimson, orange, green, blue, and pink are used for Phulkari. Bagh means garden.
There are different types of phulkari
* Sober Phulkari is a worn by a bride during marriage ceremonies; it comprises five motifs, one in the center and one each in the four corners. *Chamba Phulkari is a hybrid having a series of stylized leaves, wavy creepers and flowers. Chamba is a name of flower.
* Dhaniya bagh (coriander garden), satranga bagh (garden of rainbow), *motia bagh (jasmine garden),
* Leheria bagh (garden of waves)
Simple darning stitches are formed using un-spun silk floss yarn known as 'pat'. For this, single strand threads are made for the perfection, intricacy and delicacy in designs. The stitches may be vertical horizontal or diagonal, depending on the variation and shading that is needed. The process of doing the embroidery is quite exhaustive and only professional and experienced hands can come up with stunning designs.
Menthedana : Menthe is term for the fenugreek seed. The stitch used in this style is regular cross-stitch. The stitches look like the fenugreek seeds and usually spread all over the design.
Ganjah stitch is puff up with thread and a special technique is used by putting a needle in between.
Ribbon Work
Thin ribbon are twisted into different style then stitch with needle and thread.
Gota Work
Gota is a thin ribbon made with silk thread and metallic thread together.Weaving the work into different style is beauty of this embroidery
Different region has different embroideries so East World Market explore the story of embroiders and their creativity .
Rashidi Bibi and her team lives in a area where the Nawab of Ahmedpur lives for centuries,this town has own cultural background ,there runs a small embroidery centre by Creative artisans help by EWM Care progam.EWM provide work and raw materal to the team.
Punjab: its embroidery varieties with their intricate and unique regional design structures along with various kinds of mixed stitches and colors add to the glamour and help to create new fashion along concepts like kurtis, tops, dresses and scarves.
Area: Multan, Dera Ghazi Khan, Dera Ismail Khan, Bahawalpur,Ahmedpura
Embroidery Stitches Satin Stitch,Cross Stitch,French Knot,Lazy Daisy,Button hole,Stem Stitch.,Running, looped, laced interlaced, whipped, parallel running stitch or daring stitch.
EWM reseach Stitches Family & writing the local name given to these stitches by our artisans.
Tarkashi means threads of silk and mostly satin stitch, straight stitch (running stitch) is done in this type of embroidery.
Kacha boor work: Kacha means not solid and boor means spray so straight stitch is done and motifs filling are done with small straight stitches and out line by stem stitch.
Pakka work: pakka means "pure" or "solid", refers to the solid, permanent materials of their surroundings, the stones; it is done with tight square chain and double buttonhole stitching in geometric and floral patterns.
a. pakka suraj(sun), pakka phool(flower),pakka Marori, pakka moti tanka
Open Jali work: jali means a frame and stitches used in this type of technique is buttonhole and stem stitch.
Chikan boota natural motif of flower is means Boota here its refer as "rain of flowers"; with a combination of pakka and Soof (triangle) stitching rich blooming and sun like flowers are represented, an expression for longing for beauty, welfare and prosperity. In this type of embroidery satin stitch is used. In the centre of a flower, the stitch is done diagonally and makes a hole.
Peeli (Knot) tanka network French knots used
Crystal work pakka and boota work done with use of crystal to enhance the beauty of embroidery.
Sequins and beads net work
In this type of embroidery we use sequins and beads along with thread making a combination of both materials.
Mukesh work
Silver or Golden metalic thread is used and usually done with specail kind of needle which has two holes on top.
Phulkari work
Phulkari means flower work. This type of embroidery is striking feature of Punjabi culture. In a single stitch interesting pattern on the cloth is embroidered. Smaller stitch indicates fine quality of the embroidery. Usually silken threads in golden yellow, red, crimson, orange, green, blue, and pink are used for Phulkari. Bagh means garden.
There are different types of phulkari
* Sober Phulkari is a worn by a bride during marriage ceremonies; it comprises five motifs, one in the center and one each in the four corners. *Chamba Phulkari is a hybrid having a series of stylized leaves, wavy creepers and flowers. Chamba is a name of flower.
* Dhaniya bagh (coriander garden), satranga bagh (garden of rainbow), *motia bagh (jasmine garden),
* Leheria bagh (garden of waves)
Simple darning stitches are formed using un-spun silk floss yarn known as 'pat'. For this, single strand threads are made for the perfection, intricacy and delicacy in designs. The stitches may be vertical horizontal or diagonal, depending on the variation and shading that is needed. The process of doing the embroidery is quite exhaustive and only professional and experienced hands can come up with stunning designs.
Menthedana : Menthe is term for the fenugreek seed. The stitch used in this style is regular cross-stitch. The stitches look like the fenugreek seeds and usually spread all over the design.
Ganjah stitch is puff up with thread and a special technique is used by putting a needle in between.
Ribbon Work
Thin ribbon are twisted into different style then stitch with needle and thread.
Gota Work
Gota is a thin ribbon made with silk thread and metallic thread together.Weaving the work into different style is beauty of this embroidery
Saturday, November 6, 2010
A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization
A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization
The history of textiles & embroideries are very rich in Pakistan. Women may live in the snowy mountains, barn desert and green valley’s are born with creative spirit in each environment they infuse heart and creative spirit into weaving and embroidery. To wearing a dress with the embroidery is the custom of the village women and nowadays fashion designers making style with embroideries. Embroidered with different stitches such as satin stitch, chain stitches, canvas stitches and using glass pieces in between the work are common techniques.
In the village the ladies work together like a team and thus strength their friends by sharing the language of stitches and exchange motifs and patterns. It’s a tradition that a bride carries with her linen embroidered by her in dowries. In Pakistani embroidery each design and techniques tells an origin, tribal affiliation and identity of the woman who created the piece of art.
One of the world longest river flows in Pakistan region and called Indus River, the civilizations flourished along the banks as early as 2600BC, the Mohon-jo-dero, Harappa sites excavations has the traces of textile and embroidered patterns, today also same river flows and provide a life line to millions of people from the icy mountain to the plains. The people who live along the Indus River enrich the world with variety of cultures, religions, languages and artistic expressions. The expressions of creativity by embroideries are done for centuries as this has been practiced by the people of Pakistan since antiquity. Copper Needles for embroidery were found in the Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa excavations. Beautiful embroideries produced at the court workshops of the Mughal were distinguished for their excellent quality and artistic merit. Their embroideries embellished numerous curtains, canopies, and drapes. Extremely fine silk embroideries were made on a cotton base. The designs of these objects, including branches, flowering plants then decorated court costumes: belts, shawls, and turbans.
The history of textiles & embroideries are very rich in Pakistan. Women may live in the snowy mountains, barn desert and green valley’s are born with creative spirit in each environment they infuse heart and creative spirit into weaving and embroidery. To wearing a dress with the embroidery is the custom of the village women and nowadays fashion designers making style with embroideries. Embroidered with different stitches such as satin stitch, chain stitches, canvas stitches and using glass pieces in between the work are common techniques.
In the village the ladies work together like a team and thus strength their friends by sharing the language of stitches and exchange motifs and patterns. It’s a tradition that a bride carries with her linen embroidered by her in dowries. In Pakistani embroidery each design and techniques tells an origin, tribal affiliation and identity of the woman who created the piece of art.
One of the world longest river flows in Pakistan region and called Indus River, the civilizations flourished along the banks as early as 2600BC, the Mohon-jo-dero, Harappa sites excavations has the traces of textile and embroidered patterns, today also same river flows and provide a life line to millions of people from the icy mountain to the plains. The people who live along the Indus River enrich the world with variety of cultures, religions, languages and artistic expressions. The expressions of creativity by embroideries are done for centuries as this has been practiced by the people of Pakistan since antiquity. Copper Needles for embroidery were found in the Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa excavations. Beautiful embroideries produced at the court workshops of the Mughal were distinguished for their excellent quality and artistic merit. Their embroideries embellished numerous curtains, canopies, and drapes. Extremely fine silk embroideries were made on a cotton base. The designs of these objects, including branches, flowering plants then decorated court costumes: belts, shawls, and turbans.
Monday, October 25, 2010
Gems Yield Power and Gemstones of Pakistan
Gems Yield Power
Gems have healing power and human beings have always had a fascination for clear and colored stones. Healers from ancient times used them to harness individual qualities that healed body, mind and soil. These healers used special techniques by placing various stone on the body to eliminate stress and frustration. This was especially helpful when people were tense and angry hence, the art of the healer lies in choosing the right stone to help release energy blocks.
All gems and stones posses somewhat mystic qualities whilst some make us feel good about ourselves, each gem have a specific quality of divinity, which can bring us release when the material world has stripped us of our true nature.(practical tools of healing)generally, healers work specially with a gem of a particular color of each gems helps us to distinguish its use.
Every person has intintive abilities that attract and get attracted to a particular gem. Without conscious knowledge, the use of gems &stones in our daily lives, help us to uplift our spirits, redress imbalance and help us attain our true potential.
Gemstones of Pakistan
God has given Pakistan enormous wealth in terms of Gems & stone most of these gems are emeralds , rubies, pink topaz, beautiful tourmaline, garnet, pink topaz, spinel and different varieties of minerals such as Peridot, aquamarine, topaz of various colors including violet and pink, golden and champagne. Let’s explore the treasure of gems with EWM.
In this early write up I had mentioned that Pakistan poses gemstones here is some details as some of friends wanted to know and had ask me :
If you study history you know that the relics of the Gandhara and Indus civilizations show the traces of gemstones used by the kings of those days.
As Pakistan and Afghanistan shares a long border and this result the influx of all types of minerals from Afghanistan. Then trade started and Peshawar becomes the biggest market of gemstones. A place called Namak Mandi is still the largest markets for gemstones. Anybody wish to see the gemstone trading can watch on YouTube.
The northern and northwestern parts of Pakistan there are three world-famous ranges called Hindukush, Himalaya, and Karakorum. In these mountains have been found nearly all the minerals Pakistan currently offers to the world market, including aquamarine, topaz, Peridot, ruby, emerald, amethyst, morganite,, spinel, sphene, tourmaline, Emerald (Swat, Frontier Province), ruby (Pakistan’s Kashmir), and topaz (Kat lung, Mardan District, Frontier Province)whole of the Northwest Frontier Province these gemstones are found. Here are the region wise and details of stones given to me by Pakistan Gemstones Corporation.
Swat i.e. Malakand division – Emerald, various types of quartz, and epidote
Dir (Malakand division) – Corundum and quartz
Mansehra (Hazara division) – Corundum and smoky quartz
Kohistan (Hazara division) – Peridot
Peshawar district (Frontier province) – Quartz with astrophyllite/reibeckite fiber inclusions, xenotime, and bastnaesite
Mohmand Agency – Emerald, clinozoisite, sphene, and epidote
Bajaur Agency – Emerald, garnet, and orange-colour scapolite
Khyber Agency – Quartz with astrophyllite/reibeckite fibers inclusions, xenotime, and bastnaesite
North and South Waziristan Agencies – Fade quartz, diamond quartz, phantom quartz, chlorite-included quartz, and window quartz
Northern Areas
Chilas (Diamer district) – Alluvial diopside, zircon, rutile quartz, aquamarine, and tourmaline
Gilgit , Hunza, and Shigar (Gilgit district) – Aquamarine, topaz (golden and white), emerald (new find), ruby, pollucite, rutile quartz, morganite, apatite, spinel, and pargasite
Shengus, Stak Nala, and Tormiq Nala (Baltistan Skardu Road, Baltistan district) – Aquamarine, topaz, tourmaline, apatite, sphene, morganite, and quartz
Shigar Proper (near Skardu, Baltistan district) – Apatite, zoisite, rutile quartz, epidote, and morganite
Childee, Kashmal, and Yuno (Shigar area, near Skardu, Baltistan district) – Aquamarine, emerald-colour tourmaline, apatite, morganite, topaz, and quartz
Hyderabad, Testun, Dassu, Net Tahirabad, and Goyungo (Shigar area, Baltistan district) – Topaz (best golden colour here), aquamarine, tourmaline, morganite, rare earth minerals, apatite, quartz, and new find emerald
Appu Aligund, Fuljo, Braldu, Bashu, and Karma (Baltistan district) – Tourmaline, aquamarine, garnets, diopside, ruby, pargasite, emerald, topaz, amethyst, scheelite, and quartz
Khappalu and near Siachin area (Gaanshai area, Baltistan district) – Aquamarine, amethyst, and fine golden rutile quartz
Baluchistan Province
Kharan district – Brookite, anatase, and quartz
Chaman (near Quetta) – Diamond quartz, window quartz, quartz on prehnite-base, and faden quartz included by chlorite
So East World Market make gemstone jewelry with these gems .the stringing and making the cord is all done by the artisans and they use the same old tradition way of jewelry making .
Gems have healing power and human beings have always had a fascination for clear and colored stones. Healers from ancient times used them to harness individual qualities that healed body, mind and soil. These healers used special techniques by placing various stone on the body to eliminate stress and frustration. This was especially helpful when people were tense and angry hence, the art of the healer lies in choosing the right stone to help release energy blocks.
All gems and stones posses somewhat mystic qualities whilst some make us feel good about ourselves, each gem have a specific quality of divinity, which can bring us release when the material world has stripped us of our true nature.(practical tools of healing)generally, healers work specially with a gem of a particular color of each gems helps us to distinguish its use.
Every person has intintive abilities that attract and get attracted to a particular gem. Without conscious knowledge, the use of gems &stones in our daily lives, help us to uplift our spirits, redress imbalance and help us attain our true potential.
Gemstones of Pakistan
God has given Pakistan enormous wealth in terms of Gems & stone most of these gems are emeralds , rubies, pink topaz, beautiful tourmaline, garnet, pink topaz, spinel and different varieties of minerals such as Peridot, aquamarine, topaz of various colors including violet and pink, golden and champagne. Let’s explore the treasure of gems with EWM.
In this early write up I had mentioned that Pakistan poses gemstones here is some details as some of friends wanted to know and had ask me :
If you study history you know that the relics of the Gandhara and Indus civilizations show the traces of gemstones used by the kings of those days.
As Pakistan and Afghanistan shares a long border and this result the influx of all types of minerals from Afghanistan. Then trade started and Peshawar becomes the biggest market of gemstones. A place called Namak Mandi is still the largest markets for gemstones. Anybody wish to see the gemstone trading can watch on YouTube.
The northern and northwestern parts of Pakistan there are three world-famous ranges called Hindukush, Himalaya, and Karakorum. In these mountains have been found nearly all the minerals Pakistan currently offers to the world market, including aquamarine, topaz, Peridot, ruby, emerald, amethyst, morganite,, spinel, sphene, tourmaline, Emerald (Swat, Frontier Province), ruby (Pakistan’s Kashmir), and topaz (Kat lung, Mardan District, Frontier Province)whole of the Northwest Frontier Province these gemstones are found. Here are the region wise and details of stones given to me by Pakistan Gemstones Corporation.
Swat i.e. Malakand division – Emerald, various types of quartz, and epidote
Dir (Malakand division) – Corundum and quartz
Mansehra (Hazara division) – Corundum and smoky quartz
Kohistan (Hazara division) – Peridot
Peshawar district (Frontier province) – Quartz with astrophyllite/reibeckite fiber inclusions, xenotime, and bastnaesite
Mohmand Agency – Emerald, clinozoisite, sphene, and epidote
Bajaur Agency – Emerald, garnet, and orange-colour scapolite
Khyber Agency – Quartz with astrophyllite/reibeckite fibers inclusions, xenotime, and bastnaesite
North and South Waziristan Agencies – Fade quartz, diamond quartz, phantom quartz, chlorite-included quartz, and window quartz
Northern Areas
Chilas (Diamer district) – Alluvial diopside, zircon, rutile quartz, aquamarine, and tourmaline
Gilgit , Hunza, and Shigar (Gilgit district) – Aquamarine, topaz (golden and white), emerald (new find), ruby, pollucite, rutile quartz, morganite, apatite, spinel, and pargasite
Shengus, Stak Nala, and Tormiq Nala (Baltistan Skardu Road, Baltistan district) – Aquamarine, topaz, tourmaline, apatite, sphene, morganite, and quartz
Shigar Proper (near Skardu, Baltistan district) – Apatite, zoisite, rutile quartz, epidote, and morganite
Childee, Kashmal, and Yuno (Shigar area, near Skardu, Baltistan district) – Aquamarine, emerald-colour tourmaline, apatite, morganite, topaz, and quartz
Hyderabad, Testun, Dassu, Net Tahirabad, and Goyungo (Shigar area, Baltistan district) – Topaz (best golden colour here), aquamarine, tourmaline, morganite, rare earth minerals, apatite, quartz, and new find emerald
Appu Aligund, Fuljo, Braldu, Bashu, and Karma (Baltistan district) – Tourmaline, aquamarine, garnets, diopside, ruby, pargasite, emerald, topaz, amethyst, scheelite, and quartz
Khappalu and near Siachin area (Gaanshai area, Baltistan district) – Aquamarine, amethyst, and fine golden rutile quartz
Baluchistan Province
Kharan district – Brookite, anatase, and quartz
Chaman (near Quetta) – Diamond quartz, window quartz, quartz on prehnite-base, and faden quartz included by chlorite
So East World Market make gemstone jewelry with these gems .the stringing and making the cord is all done by the artisans and they use the same old tradition way of jewelry making .
Friday, October 22, 2010
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