Thursday, November 25, 2010

Soof Stitch in Swati Embroidery

A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization

Swati embroidery



Swati embroidery has a great significance and has won a unique status due to its innovative and creative. In the past when modern embroidery accessories were not easily available, pure silver yarn was used in embroidery and the dresses decorated this way were very heavy. As most of the females remain in the boundaries of their home in the values driven society of Swat, they have adopted this art as their past time especially the young girls who have not yet been married. These talented girls of the artistic valley of Swat decorate and adore all the dresses, shawls, blankets, bed sheets, pillow covers, table cloths, veils, head scarves, handkerchiefs, and caps etc which were to become a part of their dowry after their marriage. The verses, mosaics, natural landscapes, animals, flowers, fruits, vines and artistic symmetries created through crochet by these aesthetic girls are the most sought after works of embroidery in Swat. The golden lace embroidery of Swat has acquired a distinct recognition in the valley.
Soof stitch is highly sophisticated embroidery which means triangle. It is done with very fine surface satin stitching worked in only geometric forms, particularly the triangle, which gets composed so that they resemble hills. The counting the threads to make perfect triangle is key to this type of stitch. Mostly shawls are decorated with this kind of embroidery or created on a plain fabric and used as border for dresses.

Swati ladies stitch their clothes manually with the help of needles. They would stitch the dress from the reverse side and then double stitching was made on the dress. The bridal dresses were provided with impressive stitching/design on the collar and on the boundaries with colorful threads. This embroidery was known as chashmi bulbul (nightingale’s eye or mother eye).the stitches used are satin stitch, chain stitch and also embellished with shell and beads.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Ari work Wallet in pure leather

Baluchi Stitches

A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization

Embroidery stitches from Baluchistan:
Story of EWM artisans
Saba Humayun ,Team leader of EWM runs a small school near the mountains,mostly children who attend this school resides there and come every day to get education so their mothers come and work on bead work products bags,pouches,belts etc.their manufactured products were sold at EWM exhibitions aboard.
lets discuss the embroidery stitches of that region:


Baluchi rail pati


Mostly chain stitch and Soof stitch are used in this embroidery style. This design of embroidery resembles a rail track. The main stitch is herringbone as it is faster to fill other stitches used are an elongated darn and chain-cum-interlacing.

Kacha pakka sheesha work

This type of embroidery is called ‘pakka’ which means solid because the embroidery on these areas is very densely stitched on the ground fabric. Then the edge is done with herring born stitch loosely and called Kacha. This technique a variety of stitching techniques is used like satin, herringbone, square-chain, cross and couched stitches. They use glass mirrors in various shapes: round, rhomboid, rectangular, square, triangular, and beak shaped. The stitches are square chain interlaced with buttonhole for mirror work, single chain, knot, Romanian; blanket interlaced with herringbone, running, and double running.
Ari work or Chain stitch work motifs
This type of embroidery is mostly done with ari tool and chain stitch is used. The special needle is inserted into the fabric at a 90 degree angle, and then the thread is pulled through and again the needle is inserted, this time from the underside to the surface; again, the thread is pulled through. A thimble is not usually required to avoid injury with this method, but is sometimes used to make pushing the needle through easier. A frame or hoop called a adaha is used. A mounted hoop or frame makes the work faster, such that both hands are free for the embroidery. The dominant hand is held under the fabric, the non-dominant hand above it, and the needle is handled by each respective hand without necessity for hand position changes. This embroidery is also called as AARI Work which is like a chain stitch.

Nehran pati

Nehran(river) pati or Kharek work, literally means "fruit of the date palm", is made with narrow bars of satin stitches, closely laid together to form triangles, small squares and other geometrical figures, like an outlining and a filling-in stitching.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Qurbani on Bakra-Eid

Qurbani on Bakra-Eid

Festival of Muslims

Bakra Eid-or Eid -ul-Zuba or Eid-ul-Azha it means feast of sacrifice


This Eid has great religious significance and is an occasion of sacrifice. This festival is an occasion to remember Allah (GOD) for all the good fortune bestowed on us. This feeling is confirmed by sharing your good fortune with less fortunate ones. On this day, animal sacrifice is performed by slaughtering it and the meat is distributed among the poor and needy people.

Legend of Eid-ul-Azha

It is believed that Allah asked Hazrat Ibrahim(Abraham) to sacrifice his only son Ismail. To follow the God’s commandment, he took to sacrifice his beloved son but unable to bear to see the act of sacrifice, he blindfolded himself. When he removed the blindfolded, he saw a lamb lay slaughtered there and his son was alright. Then he understood that god wished to test his willingness to sacrifice his beloved object. This incident stated that God wants man to sacrifice his will and self. Bakra-Eid is such an occasion to reaffirm this belief. Sacrificing of animal and distributing its meat to poor ones reasserts the spirit of sacrifice. It is said that according to the customs, meat has to be divided into three equal parts among the family, friends and neighbors and deprived people. Muslims visit houses of their near and dear ones on this festival to celebrate the festival in the best way. Delicious food, desserts and beverages are cooked and served on this festival to family & friends who visit any Muslims house so Bakra-Eid is celebrated in Islamic month of Dhul Hijjah. It is celebrated for three days; from tenth to twelfth day of this month.

Rituals of Eid-ul-Azha

Muslims all over the world sacrifice goat on this day and pilgrims to Mount Mina , near Mecca , perform animal sacrifice there. As per Muslim rituals, any Muslim, who can afford two square meals a day or possesses more than 400 gms of gold, should make a animal sacrifice. Besides goat, sheep, camel or any other four legged animal can be sacrificed. It is performed any of three days of festivities but before afternoon of third day. Meat is divided in three parts and one is kept for self, other for friends and third on for the needy ones. Muslims visit Mosques to offer prayers. They wear new clothes and prepare other delicacies of Eid and share with their friends and relatives. all the Muslims celebrate this festival with great enthusiasm. Festivities mark the first day, when people wear new clothes, offer prayers at the mosque, and greet friends and relatives. The celebrations are carried on through three days to ensure that the entire Muslim community take part in the noble of act of giving and sharing. Bakra-Id is celebrated all over sub-continual with much zeal and gusto, as it is in the rest of the Islamic world. The feast of Bakra-Id is an occasion to give and to sacrifice. It is a day to thank the Almighty for one's good fortune and to share it with the less fortunate people. The animal sacrifices made during BakraEiId are mainly to provide food to the poor and to mark the noble act of Ibrahim.

Eid Mubarak

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Embroideries

Pakistan has rich tradition in hand embroideries; they are exquisite, hand-crafted with variety of style & in design. its talented artisans produce creative embroidery with high degrees of craftsmanship although there are time consuming task but still seen in Pakistani cultural as this is much appreciated and valued . Pakistani Ladies mostly wear embroidered dresses as the streets of big cities are scattered with small embroidery outlet where you can select your own design and color palette with small details. The world of embroidery in Pakistan is so diverse; you can never tire of the array of combinations and the fantastic displays of creativity.Embroidery skill is a source for income for many, special women living in small town and villages.
Different region has different embroideries so East World Market explore the story of embroiders and their creativity .
Rashidi Bibi and her team lives in a area where the Nawab of  Ahmedpur lives for centuries,this town has own cultural background ,there runs a small embroidery centre by Creative artisans help by EWM Care progam.EWM provide work and raw materal to the team.

Punjab: its embroidery varieties with their intricate and unique regional design structures along with various kinds of mixed stitches and colors add to the glamour and help to create new fashion along   concepts like kurtis, tops, dresses and scarves.


Area: Multan, Dera Ghazi Khan, Dera Ismail Khan, Bahawalpur,Ahmedpura


Embroidery Stitches Satin Stitch,Cross Stitch,French Knot,Lazy Daisy,Button hole,Stem Stitch.,Running, looped, laced interlaced, whipped, parallel running stitch or daring stitch.
EWM reseach Stitches Family & writing the local name given to these stitches by our artisans.


Tarkashi means threads of silk and mostly satin stitch, straight stitch (running stitch) is done in this type of embroidery.
Kacha boor work: Kacha means not solid and boor means spray so straight stitch is done and motifs filling are done with small straight stitches and out line by stem stitch.

Pakka work: pakka means "pure" or "solid", refers to the solid, permanent materials of their surroundings, the stones; it is done with tight square chain and double buttonhole stitching in geometric and floral patterns.
a. pakka suraj(sun), pakka phool(flower),pakka Marori, pakka moti tanka
Open Jali work: jali means a frame and stitches used in this type of technique is buttonhole and stem stitch.

Chikan boota natural motif of flower is means Boota here its refer as "rain of flowers"; with a combination of pakka and Soof (triangle) stitching rich blooming and sun like flowers are represented, an expression for longing for beauty, welfare and prosperity. In this type of embroidery satin stitch is used. In the centre of a flower, the stitch is done diagonally and makes a hole.

Peeli (Knot) tanka network French knots used

Crystal work pakka and boota work done with use of crystal to enhance the beauty of embroidery.

Sequins and beads net work
In this type of embroidery we use sequins and beads along with thread making a combination of both materials.
Mukesh work
Silver or Golden metalic thread is used and usually done with specail kind of needle which has two holes on top.
Phulkari work
Phulkari means flower work. This type of embroidery is striking feature of Punjabi culture. In a single stitch interesting pattern on the cloth is embroidered. Smaller stitch indicates fine quality of the embroidery. Usually silken threads in golden yellow, red, crimson, orange, green, blue, and pink are used for Phulkari. Bagh means garden.

There are different types of phulkari

* Sober Phulkari is a worn by a bride during marriage ceremonies; it comprises five motifs, one in the center and one each in the four corners. *Chamba Phulkari is a hybrid having a series of stylized leaves, wavy creepers and flowers. Chamba is a name of flower.

* Dhaniya bagh (coriander garden), satranga bagh (garden of rainbow), *motia bagh (jasmine garden),

* Leheria bagh (garden of waves)

Simple darning stitches are formed using un-spun silk floss yarn known as 'pat'. For this, single strand threads are made for the perfection, intricacy and delicacy in designs. The stitches may be vertical horizontal or diagonal, depending on the variation and shading that is needed. The process of doing the embroidery is quite exhaustive and only professional and experienced hands can come up with stunning designs.

Menthedana : Menthe is term for the fenugreek seed. The stitch used in this style is regular cross-stitch. The stitches look like the fenugreek seeds and usually spread all over the design.

Ganjah stitch is puff up with thread and a special technique is used by putting a needle in between.
Ribbon Work
Thin ribbon are twisted into different style then stitch with needle and thread.
Gota Work
Gota is a thin ribbon made with  silk thread and metallic thread together.Weaving the work into different style is beauty of this embroidery 

Saturday, November 6, 2010

A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization

A tale of embroidery stitches from Indus Valley Civilization


The history of textiles & embroideries are very rich in Pakistan. Women may live in the snowy mountains, barn desert and green valley’s are born with creative spirit in each environment they infuse heart and creative spirit into weaving and embroidery. To wearing a dress with the embroidery is the custom of the village women and nowadays fashion designers making style with embroideries. Embroidered with different stitches such as satin stitch, chain stitches, canvas stitches and using glass pieces in between the work are common techniques.

In the village the ladies work together like a team and thus strength their friends by sharing the language of stitches and exchange motifs and patterns. It’s a tradition that a bride carries with her linen embroidered by her in dowries. In Pakistani embroidery each design and techniques tells an origin, tribal affiliation and identity of the woman who created the piece of art.

One of the world longest river flows in Pakistan region and called Indus River, the civilizations flourished along the banks as early as 2600BC, the Mohon-jo-dero, Harappa sites excavations has the traces of textile and embroidered patterns, today also same river flows and provide a life line to millions of people from the icy mountain to the plains. The people who live along the Indus River enrich the world with variety of cultures, religions, languages and artistic expressions. The expressions of creativity by embroideries are done for centuries as this has been practiced by the people of Pakistan since antiquity. Copper Needles for embroidery were found in the Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa excavations. Beautiful embroideries produced at the court workshops of the Mughal were distinguished for their excellent quality and artistic merit. Their embroideries embellished numerous curtains, canopies, and drapes. Extremely fine silk embroideries were made on a cotton base. The designs of these objects, including branches, flowering plants then decorated court costumes: belts, shawls, and turbans.

Monday, October 25, 2010

Gems Yield Power and Gemstones of Pakistan

Gems Yield Power


Gems have healing power and human beings have always had a fascination for clear and colored stones. Healers from ancient times used them to harness individual qualities that healed body, mind and soil. These healers used special techniques by placing various stone on the body to eliminate stress and frustration. This was especially helpful when people were tense and angry hence, the art of the healer lies in choosing the right stone to help release energy blocks.

All gems and stones posses somewhat mystic qualities whilst some make us feel good about ourselves, each gem have a specific quality of divinity, which can bring us release when the material world has stripped us of our true nature.(practical tools of healing)generally, healers work specially with a gem of a particular color of each gems helps us to distinguish its use.

Every person has intintive abilities that attract and get attracted to a particular gem. Without conscious knowledge, the use of gems &stones in our daily lives, help us to uplift our spirits, redress imbalance and help us attain our true potential.

Gemstones of Pakistan


God has given Pakistan enormous wealth in terms of Gems & stone most of these gems are emeralds , rubies, pink topaz, beautiful tourmaline, garnet, pink topaz, spinel and different varieties of minerals such as Peridot, aquamarine, topaz of various colors including violet and pink, golden and champagne. Let’s explore the treasure of gems with EWM.

In this early write up I had mentioned that Pakistan poses gemstones here is some details as some of friends wanted to know and had ask me :

If you study history you know that the relics of the Gandhara and Indus civilizations show the traces of gemstones used by the kings of those days.

As Pakistan and Afghanistan shares a long border and this result the influx of all types of minerals from Afghanistan. Then trade started and Peshawar becomes the biggest market of gemstones. A place called Namak Mandi is still the largest markets for gemstones. Anybody wish to see the gemstone trading can watch on YouTube.

The northern and northwestern parts of Pakistan there are three world-famous ranges called Hindukush, Himalaya, and Karakorum. In these mountains have been found nearly all the minerals Pakistan currently offers to the world market, including aquamarine, topaz, Peridot, ruby, emerald, amethyst, morganite,, spinel, sphene, tourmaline, Emerald (Swat, Frontier Province), ruby (Pakistan’s Kashmir), and topaz (Kat lung, Mardan District, Frontier Province)whole of the Northwest Frontier Province these gemstones are found. Here are the region wise and details of stones given to me by Pakistan Gemstones Corporation.

Swat i.e. Malakand division – Emerald, various types of quartz, and epidote

Dir (Malakand division) – Corundum and quartz

Mansehra (Hazara division) – Corundum and smoky quartz

Kohistan (Hazara division) – Peridot

Peshawar district (Frontier province) – Quartz with astrophyllite/reibeckite fiber inclusions, xenotime, and bastnaesite

Mohmand Agency – Emerald, clinozoisite, sphene, and epidote

Bajaur Agency – Emerald, garnet, and orange-colour scapolite

Khyber Agency – Quartz with astrophyllite/reibeckite fibers inclusions, xenotime, and bastnaesite

North and South Waziristan Agencies – Fade quartz, diamond quartz, phantom quartz, chlorite-included quartz, and window quartz

Northern Areas

Chilas (Diamer district) – Alluvial diopside, zircon, rutile quartz, aquamarine, and tourmaline

Gilgit , Hunza, and Shigar (Gilgit district) – Aquamarine, topaz (golden and white), emerald (new find), ruby, pollucite, rutile quartz, morganite, apatite, spinel, and pargasite

Shengus, Stak Nala, and Tormiq Nala (Baltistan Skardu Road, Baltistan district) – Aquamarine, topaz, tourmaline, apatite, sphene, morganite, and quartz

Shigar Proper (near Skardu, Baltistan district) – Apatite, zoisite, rutile quartz, epidote, and morganite

Childee, Kashmal, and Yuno (Shigar area, near Skardu, Baltistan district) – Aquamarine, emerald-colour tourmaline, apatite, morganite, topaz, and quartz

Hyderabad, Testun, Dassu, Net Tahirabad, and Goyungo (Shigar area, Baltistan district) – Topaz (best golden colour here), aquamarine, tourmaline, morganite, rare earth minerals, apatite, quartz, and new find emerald

Appu Aligund, Fuljo, Braldu, Bashu, and Karma (Baltistan district) – Tourmaline, aquamarine, garnets, diopside, ruby, pargasite, emerald, topaz, amethyst, scheelite, and quartz

Khappalu and near Siachin area (Gaanshai area, Baltistan district) – Aquamarine, amethyst, and fine golden rutile quartz

Baluchistan Province

Kharan district – Brookite, anatase, and quartz

Chaman (near Quetta) – Diamond quartz, window quartz, quartz on prehnite-base, and faden quartz included by chlorite

So East World Market make gemstone jewelry with these gems .the stringing and making the cord is all done by the artisans and they use the same old tradition way of jewelry making .

Friday, October 22, 2010

Rice cooked in different ways

Cooking made easy by Kausar Iqbal

Cooking is a wonderful way of leaving behind all of life’s worries; creating magical new creations and entertaining those closest to us can be an utmost fulfilling sensation. Cooking is an art and this I had come to know when I got married and started entertaining guests at home. Post-marriage, I had the luxury to join many prestigious cookery institutions and afforded a great deal of time into refining every new recipe that I learnt. Through the years, I haven’t stopped pursuing cooking or learning; every new dish still brings me a great deal of satisfaction and approaching this with enthusiasm and zest only strengthens my love.

Encouraged by family and friends, I eventually decided to put all of my experiences of cooking & décor into book form and have enjoyed my time reliving the long journey though the years of memories. In my humble attempt to make your tables beautiful and cuisines delicious, I have included quick, easy dishes and also ventured into some rather elaborate ones.

What to cook is a dilemma faced by countless housewives; it is the hostess who loves to entertain and bring versatility to her meals who will benefit most from this book. Also, cooks who are new to this wonderful experience and those who wish to explore unchartered territories will often find the right recipe for that special occasion. Sharing good food is one of life’s simple pleasures and I hope you enjoy using this book as much as I loved putting it together.
Dedication

I dedicate this book to my beloved parents Hasan Wahaj (late) and Safia Wahaj (late) and also to my beloved husband Humayun Iqbal and two sons Adnan & Arsalan Iqbal and Sana, my daughter-in-law, who have always encouraged me in getting the best possible education and have been patient in my process of learning cooking and arts & crafts. Further thanks to all my teachers who have been kind.
Soon will put some traditional recepies from my book so my reader can enjoy making Real Pakistani Dishes for their family and friends.

Saturday, October 9, 2010

Paper Flower a joy for ever

Essence of Pakistan

'Essence' of Pakistan


A vibrant culture

Centuries old traditional living

Tight family cultural belonging

True friendship

Humble and faithfully

Energetic and hard working

Hospitable& friendly

Common mass busy in day to day life, fight with poverty but eager to earn with hard work

Street vendor found on Pakistan Street are

Vegetable seller, Fruits seller,Open air hair cutting salon,Nuts roasting cart,Sugarcane juice seller,
Bun Kebab cart,Cart full of plastic products price range Rs10 up to Rs50,
Flower shop selling floral bouquets garland made of faux money
All age children playing and dance without the danger.Life is good in Pakistan but a sence of fear something might happen?still I say there is no place like home.